조선시대 복식 풍속과 ‘복요(服妖)’ 논란

Abstract

‘Bok-yo(服妖)’ literally means that the clothes are unusual and odd. According as the manners and customs became luxurious and degraded, the clothes also became unusual and odd. This research observes 'Bok-yo(服妖)' as historical concept that is implying a feeling of danger about social downfall together as manners is been extravagant and degrades, it is happened puffer for Joseon Dynasty and would try to examine point issues of manners and customs of the clothes in Joseon Dynasty through this controversy. The following is conclusion of those. Because Joseon Dynasty corresponds to the tree[木] among five elements, 'Bok-yo(服妖)' with 'Mok-yo(木妖)‘ that is criticism about luxurious trends of house embellishment gave rise to a feeling of danger that Joseon Dynasty would perish. Even though establishing law about the disorder of woman dress and its ornaments manners, that's not possible to easily solve that problem. On Division of high and low collapsing because of luxurious trends of Early Joseon, the dread that this collapse of man and woman dress and its ornaments division was going forward by to pull down man and woman's division resulted in that 'Bok-yo(服妖)' controversy. Yangseongji(梁誠之) in Sejo(世祖)'s reign(1455-1468) insisted to the King that this tendency must be 'Bok-yo(服妖)' which this collapse of man and woman dress and its ornaments division was going forward by to pull down man and woman's division. He said that If there were man and woman's division first with dress and its ornaments system, then there must be division of high and low, but division of high and low was collapsing because of luxurious trends, a man and woman's division was collapsing by virilism of woman dress and its ornaments manners. He also insisted that as that women in the all country was enjoying wearing Jang-ui(長衣) like men, it is this 'Bok-yo(服妖)', that the clothes are unusual and odd as signs that bring a calamity in the country in word. Yangseongji(梁誠之) raised that woman's dress and its ornaments tendency was disordered once again on dimension of 'bok-yo(服妖)' in Seongjong(成宗) 9 year. He said that wearing yellow dress(黃衣) freely without distinction of high and low status, Yangban(兩班)'s women warehousing clothes and calling Wonsam(圓衫), attaching Hyungbae(胸背) on it did not think to be strange as going to city very middle on daylight in the least. Women's setup who go attaching Hyungbae(胸背) on this Wonsam(圓衫) similar to men's gwanbok(官服), because familiar attire of women of a skirt and jacket form was not, as man- Confucianist- bureaucracy's eye such as Yangseongji(梁誠之) it is that 'Bok-yo(服妖)' repeatedly warning in historical records that manners and customs of the clothes of women's warehousing clothes and calling Wonsam(圓衫), attaching Hyungbae(胸背) on it and striding broad way very middle on daylight. Development of Commerce and the Money Economy in the latter half of Joseon Dynasty supported luxurious customs. By the way, it is usual practice that these luxury begins in dress and its ornaments as for populace phenomenon. Because man can parade his own luxury through dress and its ornaments the most easily, the most notedly and most fast, the manners and customs that the luxury was demonstrated in woman's dress and its ornaments in the latter half of Joseon Dynasty were a kind of tendency of jeogory(저고리)‘s short-cut and Gache(毠髢). And A man-confucianist's resistance about this new sexual pursuit of woman dress and its ornaments manners brought about what is called 'Bok-yo(服妖)' controversy. In short, it was public order establishment through recovery of man and woman's traditional moral principle of Seongrihak(性理學) that Sadaebu(士大夫) losed control of his own society and presented by the alternative as running into crisis situation. Through a prohibition of Gache(毠髢) by law Yeongjo(英祖) and Jeongjo(正祖) established, we can see this effort to reform woman's sexual pursuit tendency at that time. As Seongho(星湖) Yiik(李瀷) also tried to recover the woman's traditional moral principle of Seongrihak(性理學) at that time, It was common to Silhakja(實學者) who would try to transcend limit of such legal action and reform manners well. 'Bok-yo(服妖)' controversy about this new sexual pursuit of woman dress and its ornaments manners such as tendency of jeogory(저고리)‘s short-cut and Gache(毠髢) happened actively in Yeongjo(英祖) and Jeongjo(正祖)'s ages is reflecting such an atmosphere. As for the man's dress and its ornaments manners in the latter half of Joseon Dynasty, we can see the 'Bok-yo(服妖)' controversy about Simui(深衣) and Bokgeon(幅巾). There were differences in composition of simui(深衣) according to dangpasaek(黨派色), also wearing Bokgeon(幅巾) was influenced by that. And They criticized each other's Simui(深衣) and bokgeon(幅巾) as 'Bok-yo(服妖)'. Through this 'Bok-yo(服妖)' controversy of men's Simui(深衣) and Bokgeon(幅巾), we came to know that this controversy on men's clothes were not that was relating to pattern of dress and its ornaments such as woman, but that was relating to interpretation on Jujahak(朱子學) mainly.