안토시아닌 유무에 근거한 천연화장품의 소재로서 식용식물 추출물의 유용성 평가
Usefulness Evaluation of Water Extracts of Edible Plants as Compounds for the Natural Cosmetics Based on Present or Absent of Anthocyanin
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목적: 본 연구의 목적은 안토시아닌의 유무에 따른 특정 식용식물 추출물의 폴리페놀과 플라보노이드 함량, 항산화 활성 및 콜라게나제, 엘라스타제, 티로시나제의 억제활성을 비교하여 화장품 소재로서의 유용성을 평가하는 것이다. 방법: 개복숭아잎, 감잎, 녹차잎, 검정콩, 흑미, 가지를 동일한 조건에서 건조하였으며, 미세분말을 얻기 위하여 파쇄한 후 50 메쉬의 체를 사용하여 여과하였다. 재료분말 10 g을 100 mL의 증류수에 현탁하여 4℃에서 48 h 동안 추출하였고 화학 및 생화학적 분석을 위한 시료로서 사용하였다. 결과: 녹차잎 추출물의 폴리페놀과 플라보노이드의 함량은 각각 9.73 g/100 g과 1.28 g/100 g으로 다른 재료에 비해 각각 약 3–6배, 2–9배 높았으며 흑미 껍질 추출물의 안토시아닌 함량은 0.053 g/100 g으로 다른 재료에 비해 약 2–3배 높았다. DPPH와 ABTS 소거활성을 기준으로 측정한 녹차잎 추출물(40 mg/100 mL)의 라디칼 소거활성은 각각 약 59.5%와 69.7%로 다른 재료의 추출물에 비해 상대적인 활성이 각각 3–66배, 3–30배 높았다. 흑미 껍질 추출물과 가지 껍질 추출물(2 g/100 mL)의 콜라게나제 억제활성은 각각 약 58.9%와 56.4%로 다른 재료의 추출물에 비해 약 2–32배, 2–31배 높았다. 가지 껍질 추출물(2 g/100 mL)의 엘라스타제 억제활성은 약 22.5%로 다른 재료에 비해 2–3배 활성이 높았다. 감잎과 녹차잎 추출물(2 g/100 mL)의 티로시나제 억제 활성은 약 58.8%와 42.7%로 다른 재료에 비해 각각 약 2–3배, 1.5–2배 높았다. 결론: 천연 화장품의 재료로서 식물 추출물의 가치를 평가할 때 안토시아닌과 항산화 효과는 물론 미용을 위해 유용한 기능성을 기준으로 재료를 선별하고 조합하는 것이 필요할 것으로 사료된다.
Abstract
Purpose: Aim of this study is to evaluate usefulness of water extracts obtained from some edible plants as material for natural cosmetics. Methods: River peach leaves, persimmon leaves, green tea leaves, black beans, black rice, and eggplants were dried under the same condition, and then they were selected, crushed and separated using a 50 mesh sieve. 10 g of the powder was suspended in 100 mL of distilled water and then extracted for 48 h at 4℃ to be used as a sample for chemical and biochemical analysis. Results: Polyphenol and flavonoid contents of green tea extracts were 9.73 g/100 g and 1.28 g/100 g, respectively, which were about 3–6 and 2–9 times, respectively, higher than others. Anthocyanin contents of black rice peel were approximately 0.053 g/100 g, which were about 2–3 times higher than others. DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging activities of green tea extracts (40 mg/100 mL) were 59.5% and 69.7%, respectively, which were about 3–66 times and 3–30 times, respectively, higher than others. Collagenase inhibition activities of black rice peel and eggplant peel extracts (2 g/100 mL) were 58.9% and 56.4%, respectively, which were about 2–32 times and 2–31 times, respectively, higher than others. Elastase inhibition activity of eggplant peel extracts (2 g/100 mL) was 22.5%, which was about 2–3 times higher than others. Tyrosinase inhibition activities of persimmon and green tea extracts (2 g/100 mL) were 58.8% and 42.7%, respectively, which were about 2–3 times and 1.5–2 times, respectively, higher than other. Conclusion: Selection and combination of plants extracts with useful functions for beauty in company with anthocyanin and anti-oxidant may be required when usefulness of plant extracts as the material for natural cosmetics were evaluated.
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