Landscape, Memory, and the “Gaze of Others”: Becoming Nostalgic Subjects in a Post-ingenio Cuban Village
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In Cuba, the sugar agro-industry has long been closely intertwined with the global political economy, affecting regional economic structure and culture. With the national downsizing of the sugar agro-industry in the early 2000s as a backdrop, this article examines the local and personal repercussions of the restructuring and its implications in the post-Soviet era. Based on ethnographic field research in a shut-down sugar-mill town (batey), I pay particular attention to memories of place and nostalgia, made through the decaying batey landscape, and tourism introduced in the early 2000s. Built in 1916, the batey Hershey, as an example of Cuban modern passage, displays today an exceptional palimpsest of spatial characteristics that concurrently preserve the early 1900s American modernist vision for work and life, socialist values of the post-revolutionary times, and national post-Soviet strategies such as tourism. It is since the sugar-mill closed in 2002, that its remaining material infrastructure has evoked personal memories and gained foreign attention. The architectural and spatial arrangements, reflecting Hershey’s modernist vision for life and community are now sites of nostalgia among the batey residents. Their memories of places often contribute to critiques of the current socio-economic dilapidation. Rather than seeing this nostalgia simply as a “late-socialist” symptom, I inquire into the ways in which such evanescent mood has been maintained, and the social functions served thereby. Recounting the institutional, intellectual, and touristic interventions in the village, I discuss how those engagements made possible personal estrangement from the material surroundings, and have encouraged self-reflection and longing for the distant Hershey era. Based on this discussion, I argue that nostalgia continues as individuals appropriate socially sanctioned nostalgic narratives in reflecting on self and the past in Cuba.
Abstract
In Cuba, the sugar agro-industry has long been closely intertwined with the global political economy, affecting regional economic structure and culture. With the national downsizing of the sugar agro-industry in the early 2000s as a backdrop, this article examines the local and personal repercussions of the restructuring and its implications in the post-Soviet era. Based on ethnographic field research in a shut-down sugar-mill town (batey), I pay particular attention to memories of place and nostalgia, made through the decaying batey landscape, and tourism introduced in the early 2000s. Built in 1916, the batey Hershey, as an example of Cuban modern passage, displays today an exceptional palimpsest of spatial characteristics that concurrently preserve the early 1900s American modernist vision for work and life, socialist values of the post-revolutionary times, and national post-Soviet strategies such as tourism. It is since the sugar-mill closed in 2002, that its remaining material infrastructure has evoked personal memories and gained foreign attention. The architectural and spatial arrangements, reflecting Hershey’s modernist vision for life and community are now sites of nostalgia among the batey residents. Their memories of places often contribute to critiques of the current socio-economic dilapidation. Rather than seeing this nostalgia simply as a “late-socialist” symptom, I inquire into the ways in which such evanescent mood has been maintained, and the social functions served thereby. Recounting the institutional, intellectual, and touristic interventions in the village, I discuss how those engagements made possible personal estrangement from the material surroundings, and have encouraged self-reflection and longing for the distant Hershey era. Based on this discussion, I argue that nostalgia continues as individuals appropriate socially sanctioned nostalgic narratives in reflecting on self and the past in Cuba.
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