릭 오웬스 패션컬렉션에 나타난 표현 특성 -2011 S/S ~ 2018 S/S 패션컬렉션을 중심으로-

Abstract

Background Amid the rapid change in fashion stream, it is a must to build up the unique fashion world. This study intends to draw expression characteristics from Rick Owens' works by analyzing fashion collections in which his aesthetic differentiation outstands. Methods First, literature review was practiced regarding his history and art world. Second, empirical study was done for analysis of collections from 2011 S/S to 2018 S/S. This study looked into the formative aspect including theme by the season, the collection place, and the stage. Third, presentation characteristics were picked up by comprehensive assessment of fashion philosophy as designer and analytic results in collections. Result Collection analysis resulted in thin and long straight and A-line in general. However, cocoon silhouette and atypical silhouette were also added in some seasons, featuring the architectural beauty. Especially, abstractively formative beauty was accented by using some techniques such as structural cutting and drape, layered style, and binding. In color, such colors were adopted as achromatic color series, or applied arrangement like tone-in-tone and tone-on-tone. Pattern was excluded and conversely, form, color, and color were much highlighted. Based on leather, cotton, suede, wool, and jersey as material, the contrast of texture with material mix-and-match and the visual and feel surface effect were stressed. Places used for collection were mainly the space exposed to building interior or pipe line, not to mention the rough concrete pole. This provides an understanding that Rick Owens fashion collection is characterized as reflection of brutalism aesthetics, extension of minimalism, and re-creation of Gothic emotion. Conclusion Rick Owens has made designer's identity on his own by seeing the fashion through diverse points beyond the conventional fashion boundary.