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국내 여성 패션모델 체형 반영 인대를 활용한입체재단 및 평면재단 스커트 원형 특성 분석

Analysis of Skirt Block Patterns Developed through Draping and Drafting Methods Using the Dress Form Representing the Body Features of Korean Female Fashion Models

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초록

The purpose of the study was to suggest certain measurements of the skirt block pattern drafting process for the Korean female fashion models, with the aim to improve its fit. For this purpose, the study carried out an analysis of the lower body features of a dress form developed for the study. This form was representative of Korean female fashion models' body features. The study performed a cross-sectional analysis at waist and hip levels and measured the angles from the frontal and lateral silhouettes of the dress forms. The comparisons of the skirt block patterns developed through draping by the use of 2 types of the dress forms developed and existed and through drafting according to the current patternmaking method have led to noticeable findings in terms of implementation of the skirt block drafting process for the Korean female fashion models. The results of the study are as follows: (1) the vertical lengths between the levels at the front waist point and the side waist point in the patterns are 0.7cm; (2) the vertical length between the levels at the front waist point and the back waist point in the back panel is 0.7cm; (3) the horizontal lengths between the perpendicular line from the side hip point and the side waist point in patterns are within a range of 2.0 to 2.2cm; (4) the horizontal length between the original and the adjusted back waist points moved into the waist line, in a range of 0.0 to 1.0cm, differs whether the center back line would be folded or sewn.

Abstract

The purpose of the study was to suggest certain measurements of the skirt block pattern drafting process for the Korean female fashion models, with the aim to improve its fit. For this purpose, the study carried out an analysis of the lower body features of a dress form developed for the study. This form was representative of Korean female fashion models' body features. The study performed a cross-sectional analysis at waist and hip levels and measured the angles from the frontal and lateral silhouettes of the dress forms. The comparisons of the skirt block patterns developed through draping by the use of 2 types of the dress forms developed and existed and through drafting according to the current patternmaking method have led to noticeable findings in terms of implementation of the skirt block drafting process for the Korean female fashion models. The results of the study are as follows: (1) the vertical lengths between the levels at the front waist point and the side waist point in the patterns are 0.7cm; (2) the vertical length between the levels at the front waist point and the back waist point in the back panel is 0.7cm; (3) the horizontal lengths between the perpendicular line from the side hip point and the side waist point in patterns are within a range of 2.0 to 2.2cm; (4) the horizontal length between the original and the adjusted back waist points moved into the waist line, in a range of 0.0 to 1.0cm, differs whether the center back line would be folded or sewn.

참고문헌 (16)

  1. Gilewska, T., "Pattern-drafting for fashion: The basics (Vol. 1)", pp.7~26 (2011), A&C Black Publishers Ltd.
  2. Gilewska, T., "Pattern-drafting for fashion: Draping (Vol. 3)", pp.9~10 (2012), A&C Black Publishers Ltd.
  3. Joseph-Armstrong, H., "Draping for apparel design", pp.19~21 (2013), Fairchild Publications Inc.
  4. Kim, H., "Development of the dress form for high school girls through analyzing somatotype", Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 18(1), pp.130~139 (1994)
  5. 김수아, "3차원 인체 형상을 이용한 실버 여성 패션 산업용 인대 모형 개발", 복식문화연구, 18(1), pp.80~92 (2010), 복식문화학회[DOI]
  6. 구미지, "20대 여성의 표준체형과 인대 적합성에 관한 연구", 한국의류산업학회지, 7(6), pp.601~608 (2005), 한국의류산업학회
  7. "Development of 3D virtual fitting model and dress form of men's lower body in 40s by using 3D human body scan data"[URL]
  8. Lee, H., "Patternmaking for ready-to-wear (2nd ed)", pp.215~218 (2012), Kyohakyeonkoosa
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  10. Park, C., "Development of the dress forms for pre school children's clothing construction", Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 23(2), pp.335~342 (1999)
  11. 박진아, "국내 여성 패션모델의 3차원 가상인체 모델링을 통한 토르소형 인대 개발과 그 특성 분석", 복식, 65(2), pp.157~175 (2015), 한국복식학회[DOI]
  12. 박진아, "국내 여성 패션모델 체형 반영 인대 활용을 통한 입체재단 제작 길원형 특성 분석", 패션 비즈니스, 21(1), pp.74~87 (2017), 한국패션비즈니스학회[DOI]
  13. 박진아, "국내 여성용 인대 사용 실태 및 만족도에 관한 연구", 한국의류학회지, 30(3), pp.378~385 (2006), 한국의류학회
  14. 서추연, "Development of Elderly Women's Dress Form According to Their Somatotypes for the Silver Apparel Industry", 패션 비즈니스, 8(6), pp.25~38 (2004), 한국패션비즈니스학회
  15. 서동애, "3D 인체 스캔 데이터를 활용한 체형별 인대모형 개발에 관한 연구", 한국콘텐츠학회 논문지, 12(9), pp.136~145 (2012), 한국콘텐츠학회[DOI]
  16. 유현, "패턴메이킹을 위한 남성 인대개발에 관한 연구", 패션 비즈니스, 10(5), pp.159~179 (2006), 한국패션비즈니스학회

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