내몽고 집녕로(集寧路) 출토 원대복식에 대한 고찰

Abstract

Three Mongol Yuan garments were excavated from the old Yuan castle located in Jininlu Neimengu in 1976, and those are one of the most representative costume remains of Mongol Yuan which show the high level of costume culture. Three garments consist of two kinds of Banbi(半臂), -one decorated with many kinds of embroideries, and the other with gold foil sticking-, and one coat decorated with gold foil sticking. The remains of Jininglu were reported in Wenwu No. 8 in 1979. However, due to the fact that it is not written by costume specialist and the difference of the terms between China and Korea, it is difficult to grasp the exact construction of the garments. Also, it is before the excavation of the representative costume remains of Qidan Liao and Jurchen Jin, so the report finds the background of the production of the garments from the costume culture of Southern Song. For these reasons, it is required to study those garments in another kind of view. This study provides the list of measurements about each part of the garments and the pattern for the reconstruction, and it can be a database for research on the Yuan costume. Also it discusses the decorational and structural characteristics of the garments, and proposes that the garments have the taste of northern nomadic costume culture contrary to existing discussion.This study also will be helpful to reconstruct the Koryo costume because there are few costume remains in Koryo dynasty.