13-14세기 고려복식에 수용된 몽고복식에 관한 연구

Abstract

This study focuses on the Mongol costumes which have been adopted to the costumes of the Koryo dynasty. Koryo and Mongol have a deep relationship in the period of Mongol dominance between the thirteenth and the fourteenth centuries. The purposes of this study are to investigate the process of adopting the Mongol costumes and the kind of the Mongol costumes adopted. This study will also reinvestigate on the so called, 'Mongolian style‘, which was first studied by the practical scientists of late Chosun dynasty.This study compares the materials on various books, paintings, and remains of costume before and after Mongol dominance period, and investigates the influence on shapes and terminologies of everyday dresses. First of all, the change of Koryo costume during the Mongolian dominance is mainly due to the results of cultural exchange due to conquest and resulting social change. The causes of the change consists of political, social, and cultural ones.The Mongol costumes adopted to the costumes of the Koryo dynasty are classified as hairstyle, headdress, and coats. First, the hairstyle has to be changed to braiding during the Mongolian dominance by the enforcement of Mongols. Second, Mogolian headdress such as Lip(笠) -a men's headdress-, Bogta - women's headdress, and the winter caps(暖帽) are adopted. Third, coats such as Chupli(帖裡) and Dapho(搭護) have emerged. The coat remains of Mongol which are similar to the new kind of coat of Koryo has been found, and also Chupli and Dapho are only found in the remains of Mongol. Therefore, these coats are presumed to be the outcome of the exchange with Mongol costume.Also, so called 'Mongolian style" examples lack the justification enough to be so called. Therefore, more investigation and correction are necessary.