미쯔이(三井)가문의 고소데(小袖)에 관한 연구 -문화학원박물관 소장자료를 중심으로-
Study on the Kosode of Mitsui Family - focused on the Bunka Gakuen Costume Museum -
0
조회
0
다운로드
3
인용
0
참고문헌
키워드
초록
In this study, we compared constitution style, pattern, hue and material 22 Kosodes, which are apparent of the time and position of the family’s social standing in Mitsui Family and now owned by Bunka Gakuen Costume Museum, Tokyo, Japan. The result is as follows. Kosode of Mitsui Family mostly makes material animal, plant and landscape, and expressed reality in various technique such as fit dye technic, sewing and embroidery. Kosode which utilized such technique expressed decoration and the molding beauty. It was confirmed that the works of the embroidery technique let reality surface while giving the pattern of the texture a feeling of shadow were reconfirmed the characteristics of the traditional dress of Edo Era, and the works which emphasized gold leaf and precise reality using the gilt thread were the material which showed economic power of Edo Era and Mitsui Family. And we also confirmed that color and pattern of Kosode becoming simple as time goes by from Edo Era to Meiji Era and Taisho Era. The color used mainly blue and white, red, green, black and yellow in turns. We are going to light up the value as culture contents utilize the works which utilized the technique of Japanese traditional dress after 17th century in modern clothes.
Abstract
In this study, we compared constitution style, pattern, hue and material 22 Kosodes, which are apparent of the time and position of the family’s social standing in Mitsui Family and now owned by Bunka Gakuen Costume Museum, Tokyo, Japan. The result is as follows. Kosode of Mitsui Family mostly makes material animal, plant and landscape, and expressed reality in various technique such as fit dye technic, sewing and embroidery. Kosode which utilized such technique expressed decoration and the molding beauty. It was confirmed that the works of the embroidery technique let reality surface while giving the pattern of the texture a feeling of shadow were reconfirmed the characteristics of the traditional dress of Edo Era, and the works which emphasized gold leaf and precise reality using the gilt thread were the material which showed economic power of Edo Era and Mitsui Family. And we also confirmed that color and pattern of Kosode becoming simple as time goes by from Edo Era to Meiji Era and Taisho Era. The color used mainly blue and white, red, green, black and yellow in turns. We are going to light up the value as culture contents utilize the works which utilized the technique of Japanese traditional dress after 17th century in modern clothes.
참고문헌 (38)
- 日野西資, "日本の美術, 26 服飾", pp.1517~ (1968), 至文堂
- 江馬務, "日本服装小史", pp.1109~ (1960), 星野書店
- 이자연, "《源氏物語會圈》을 통해 본 일본 헤이안시대 지배계층의 여자 복식", 한복문화, 11(1), pp.151~161 (2008), 한복문화학회
- 김문자, "일본 고대 복식에 미친 백제복식의 영향", 복식, 62(5), pp.96~107 (2012), 한국복식학회[DOI]
- 홍성화, "服飾文化交流를 통해 본 古代 韓日 관계", 한복문화, 15(3), pp.135~146 (2012), 한복문화학회
- 김금화, "KATSURAYUMI(桂由美)의작품에나타난傳統性에관한考察", 한복문화, 14(3), pp.127~142 (2011), 한복문화학회
- 文化學 園服飾博物館, "日本服飾の美", pp.21~31 (2005), 文化出版局
- 정혜란, "日本 고소데(小 ) 紋樣에 대한 考察", 고문화, 62, pp.87~112 (2003), 한국대학박물관협회
- 井筒雅風, "日本女性服飾史", pp.87~97 (1986), 光琳社
- 笠原一男, "日本史硏究", pp.125~ (1995), 山川出版社
- 大沼淳, "服飾辞典", pp.146~ (1987)
- 大沼淳, "三井家伝来小袖展", pp.16~758 (1990), 文化學園服飾博
- 丸山伸彦, "江戸のきものと衣生活", pp.16~2425 (2007), 小学館
- 装道きものの学院, "日本のきもの", pp.40~56 (1977), 主婦と 生活社
- 長崎巌, "日本の染織, 4 小袖", pp.1758~ (1993), 京都書院
- 北村哲郎, "日本服飾史", pp.111~164 (1978), 衣生活研究会
- 女子美術大学, "江戸の美着物デザイン", pp.34~67 (2011), 東京美術
- 国立歴史民族博物館, "江戸モ－ド大図鑑-", 16~75 (1999)
- 文化学園服飾博物館, "江戸.明治時代の小袖展", pp.66~67 (1981), 文化學園服飾博物館
- 鈴木淳, "家紋で読み解く日本の歴史", pp.1618~ (2003), 学習 研究社
- 양지나, "에도시대 우키요에 복식에 표현된 문양과 색채", 박사, 의류학, pp.2010
- 西村兵部, "日本の美術, 12 織物", pp.44~66 (1967), 至文堂
- 平沢嶽男, "被服素材", pp.45~ (1991), 三共出版
- 国立歴史民族博物館, "布の力布のわざ", pp.40~80 (1998), 大塚功社
- 文化学園服飾博物館, "三井家のきもの下絵", pp.43~ (2009), 公和印刷
- 文化学園服飾博物館, "三井家の きもの", pp.22~25 (2006), 文化出版局
- 佐藤方彦, "日本人の事典", pp.283~289 (2003), 朝倉書店
- 山口 徹, "日本人の生いたち", pp.135~143 (1999), みすず書 房
- 女子美ア－トミユ－ジアム, "KIMONO", pp.73~135 (2006)
- 服飾文化研究会, "服飾文化研究会きものの図緑壱", pp.22~93 (2006), 源流社
- 北村哲郎, "일본복식사", pp.136~150 (1999), 경춘사
- 長崎巌, "日本の美術, 341 町" (1994)
- "人の服飾", pp.145~, 至文堂
- 국립문화재연구소, "우리나라 직물 1: 무늬", pp.46~ (2006), 눌와
- 山辺知行, "日本の美術, 7 染", pp.60~114 (1966), 至文堂
- 文化學園服飾博物館, "刺繍の世界" (1992)
- 東京国立博物館, "日本の染色" (1973)