우키요에 화풍과 네오 팝 패션디자인이 공유하고 있는 문화 코드의 특성 고찰
A Study on the Characteristics of Cultural Codes Shared by Ukiyo-e Painting Style and Neo Pop Fashion Design
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본 연구의 목적은 네오 팝 패션디자인의 표현특성을 토대로 에도 시대의 대중미술인 우키요에의 표현양식과 문화적인 배경을 고찰하여 우키요에와 네오 팝 문화 코드의 유사성을 규명하는 것이다. 네오팝이 진입장벽이 낮고 진입경로가 다양한 반면에 문화적인 소비력이 크다는 것이 부각되면서 네오 팝의 활용 범위가 확대되었다. 혼성모방 표현양식이 네오 팝의 콘텐츠 차용뿐 아니라 트렌드를 민첩하게반영할 수 있는 토대가 되었고, 캐릭터를 중심으로 연동되어 있는 서브컬처를 토대로 소비자를 공유할수 있기 때문이다. 네오 팝은 오타쿠 문화뿐 아니라 에도 시대의 향락적인 조닌 문화가 투영되어 있는우키요에의 영향을 받았다. 따라서 본 연구는 네오 팝 패션디자인의 특성인 모방적인 창작방식, 중의적인 표현양식, 통속적인 콘텐츠, 표현양식의 도식성 등을 중심으로 이러한 표현양식이 등장하게 된요인을 문화적 원형인 네오 팝과 오타쿠 문화, 우키요에를 거슬러 올라가면서 규명하는 방식으로 진행하였다. 에도 시대에는 문학작품의 서사를 차용한 스토리텔링이 있는 작품이 많았기 때문에 그림의 토대가 된 고전문학을 함께 고찰하였다. 이러한 과정을 통해 도출된 우키요에와 네오 팝이 공유하고 있는 문화 코드는 유희적인 패러디, 양면적인 가치, 키치적인 캐릭터, 문화적인 연계로 나타났다. 본 연구가 전통문화에서 추출된 콘텐츠에 내포되어 있는 의미를 명료하게 해석하고 새로운 콘텐츠를 개발할 수 있는 단서를 제공함으로써 네오 팝의 활용성을 확장시키는 계기가 될 것이다.
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to investigate the similarities between Ukiyo-e and Neo Pop culture codes by examining the expression style and cultural background of Ukiyo-e, a popular art of the Edo period, based on the expressive characteristics of Neo Pop fashion design. While Neo Pop has low entry barriers and diverse entry routes, the wide range of uses of Neo Pop has been highlighted as it has a large cultural consumption power. This is because the pastiche expression style not only borrowed Neo Pop content, but also became the basis for agile reflection of trends, and consumers can be shared based on subcultures linked to characters. Neo Pop was influenced not only by Otaku culture, but also by Ukiyo-e, which reflected the pleasure-seeking Chonin Culture of the Edo period. Therefore, this study proceeded by identifying the factors that led to the emergence of this style of expression by tracing back to the cultural archetypes of Neo Pop, Otaku culture, and Ukiyo-e focusing on the imitative creative method, ambiguous expression style, conventional content, and schematism of expression style, which are the characteristics of Neo Pop fashion design. For Ukiyo-e data, the internet site (https://ukiyo-e.org/) in which literature and Ukiyo-e data base are built was referred. As for the scopes of research are restricted to Pret-a-porter womenswear collection in London, Milan, Paris and New York for about 20 years since 2003, and include the design announced in the collection, advertisement campaign and the collaboration case with other fields. The cultural codes shared by Ukiyo-e and Neo Pop derived through this process appeared as playful parody, ambivalent values, kitsch characters, and cultural linkages. This study will serve as an opportunity to expand the usability of Neo Pop by clearly interpreting the meaning contained in the contents extracted from traditional culture and providing clues to develop new contents.
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