알렉산더 맥퀸 컬렉션에 나타난 그로테스크(Grotesque) 표현 특성에 관한 연구 -1996년 ~ 2010년 컬렉션을 중심으로-
A Study on the Characteristics of Grotesque Expression in Alexander McQueen Collection -based on the 1996-2010 collection-
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초록
본 연구는 알렉산더 맥퀸 컬렉션에 나타난 그로테스크 표현 특성을 분석하고 이를 심층적으로 고찰하는 데 목적이 있다. 연구자는 그로테스크의 발생 개념과 배경을 선행 연구를 통해 검토한 결과, 2003년부터 2006년까지의 연구에서는 이질성, 혐오성, 악마성, 유희성 등의 특성이 단편적으로 도출되었으며, 2012년 이후의 연구에서는 과장된 비정상성, 이질적 부조화, 부정적 유희 등의 특성이 보다 구체적으로 제시되었음을 확인하였다. 이는 알렉산더 맥퀸 컬렉션이 점차적으로 더 다양한 작품과 극적인 표현 방식을 선보였으며, 시간이 흐르면서 다양한 연구자의 시각을 통해 심도 있는 평가가 이루어졌기 때문으로 해석된다. 알렉산더 맥퀸 컬렉션에서 그로테스크적 특성은 네 가지 주요 범주로 나눌 수 있다. 첫째, ‘기괴한 공포’는 공포를 유발하는 오브제와 디테일, 미지의 세계와 생물에 대한 공포를 특징으로 한다. 둘째, ‘비정상적 유희’는 현실을 벗어난 신체 표현과 상상 속 생물 형상화가 포함된다. 셋째, ‘신체 훼손과 왜곡’은 신체의 내적 요소의 노출과 신체 훼손을 암시하는 오브제 사용으로 표현된다. 넷째, ‘극단적 혐오’는 혐오감을 유발하는 오브제와 폭력적인 묘사를 포함한다. 각 특성별로 분석한 결과, ‘기괴한 공포’ 특성이 31.06%로 가장 높은 비율을 차지하였고, ‘비정상적 유희’가 24.27%, ‘신체 훼손과 왜곡’이 23.32%, ‘극단적 혐오’가 21.35%로 나타났다. 본 연구는 다양한 미적 특성들이 공존하는 패션 디자인 분야에서 기초 자료로 활용될 수 있으며, 그로테스크의 복합적 특성에 대한 후속 연구가 활발히 진행되기를 기대한다.
Abstract
This study aims to analyze and critically examine the grotesque expressive characteristics present in Alexander McQueen’s collections. Through a review of prior research, the researcher investigated the origin and background of the concept of grotesque. The findings revealed that, from 2003 to 2006, studies identified fragmented grotesque characteristics such as heterogeneity, repulsiveness, devilishness, and playfulness. However, from 2012 onward, more specific features like exaggerated abnormality, discordant dissonance, and negative playfulness were delineated. This shift reflects the increasing variety of works and dramatic expressions presented in Alexander McQueen’s collections, as well as the in-depth evaluation over time by various researchers. The grotesque characteristics in Alexander McQueen’s collections can be categorized into four main themes. First, “strange horror” is characterized by the use of objects and details that evoke fear, as well as the fear of unknown worlds and creatures. Second, “abnormal play” includes imaginative body representations that transcend reality and the creation of fantastical creatures. Third, “bodily mutilation and distortion” is expressed through the exposure of internal body elements like bones and muscles, as well as objects that imply bodily harm. Lastly, “extreme repulsion" involves the use of repulsive objects, explicit sexual expressions, and violent depictions of the body. The analysis revealed that the “strange horror” theme accounted for the highest proportion at 31.06%, followed by “abnormal play” at 24.27%, “bodily mutilation and distortion” at 23.32%, and “extreme repulsion” at 21.35%. This study serves as a foundational resource for the fashion design field, where diverse aesthetic characteristics coexist, and hopes to encourage further research on the complex traits of the grotesque.
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