“Shock of Daughters”: Fashion, Unisex Style, and Gender Politics in South Korean Media (1970s-1980s)
2
조회
0
다운로드
0
인용
0
참고문헌
키워드
초록
In this paper, we examine the transformation of women’s fashion in 1970s and 80s South Korea by analyzing the images and narratives of unisex clothing in print media. During the industrialization, modernization, and Westernization of South Korean society in the postwar period, women’s fashion underwent tremendous change. Korean society witnessed women’s daily clothes shifting from traditional hanbok 韓服 to simplified Western clothes (kansobok 簡素服) to unisex/androgynous styles. Fashion items such as pantalons, jeans, shirts, tailored jackets and suits, casual office wear, and neckties, conventionally identified as men’s wear, became wardrobe choices for women. One explanation for this is that these changes took place as a result of the influence of South Korean state policy and the national reconstruction movement to simplify women’s dress codes for the sake of economization. However, a closer investigation of the narratives of unisex clothing reveals the impact of feminist movements, a robust youth culture, and young women’s own desire to achieve gender equality and active social participation. Women’s choice of unisex styles came to be viewed as “the era of de-feminized culture: shock of daughters” (t’al yǒsǒng munhwa sidae: ttaltŭl ŭi ch’unggyŏk). There was increased social pressure to reinforce the existing gender-binary system in the face of gender-blurring styles or what was seen as the masculinization of women. Women’s cultural expressions of power, freedom, consumer choices, and modernity, nonetheless, became manifested through their fashion choices. By shedding light on the emergence of unisex clothing in South Korean modernity, this study ultimately seeks to undermine our view of the West as the epicenter of fashion and beauty and urges us to imagine alternative histories and spaces of fashion and bodily aesthetics.
Abstract
In this paper, we examine the transformation of women’s fashion in 1970s and 80s South Korea by analyzing the images and narratives of unisex clothing in print media. During the industrialization, modernization, and Westernization of South Korean society in the postwar period, women’s fashion underwent tremendous change. Korean society witnessed women’s daily clothes shifting from traditional hanbok 韓服 to simplified Western clothes (kansobok 簡素服) to unisex/androgynous styles. Fashion items such as pantalons, jeans, shirts, tailored jackets and suits, casual office wear, and neckties, conventionally identified as men’s wear, became wardrobe choices for women. One explanation for this is that these changes took place as a result of the influence of South Korean state policy and the national reconstruction movement to simplify women’s dress codes for the sake of economization. However, a closer investigation of the narratives of unisex clothing reveals the impact of feminist movements, a robust youth culture, and young women’s own desire to achieve gender equality and active social participation. Women’s choice of unisex styles came to be viewed as “the era of de-feminized culture: shock of daughters” (t’al yǒsǒng munhwa sidae: ttaltŭl ŭi ch’unggyŏk). There was increased social pressure to reinforce the existing gender-binary system in the face of gender-blurring styles or what was seen as the masculinization of women. Women’s cultural expressions of power, freedom, consumer choices, and modernity, nonetheless, became manifested through their fashion choices. By shedding light on the emergence of unisex clothing in South Korean modernity, this study ultimately seeks to undermine our view of the West as the epicenter of fashion and beauty and urges us to imagine alternative histories and spaces of fashion and bodily aesthetics.
참고문헌 (46)
- "Yŏsŏng tonga 女性東亞", 1972
- "Yŏsŏng tonga 女性東亞", 1970
- "Tonga ilbo 東亞日報", 1974
- "Tonga ilbo 東亞日報", 1962
- "Yŏsŏng tonga 女性東亞", 1983
- "Tonga ilbo 東亞日報", 1975
- "Tonga ilbo 東亞日報", 1974
- "“K’aejuŏlbok sidae: paji ch’arim kajang mant’a,” 캐쥬얼服시대: 바지차림 가장많다", Kyŏnghyang sinmun 京鄕新聞, ~ (1983)
- "Yŏsŏng tonga", 1975
- "Tonga ilbo 東亞日報", 1978
- "Tonga ilbo 東亞日報", 1978
- "Chosŏn ilbo 朝 鮮日報", 1973
- "Tonga ilbo 東亞日報", 1978
- "Yŏsŏng tonga 女性東亞", 1988
- "Yŏsŏng tonga 女性東亞", 1988
- "Yŏsŏng tonga 女性東亞", 1976
- "Kyŏnghyang sinmun 京鄕新聞", 1983
- "Kyŏnghyang sinmun 京鄕新聞", 1971
- "Tonga ilbo 東亞日報", 1967
- "Kyŏnghyang sinmun 京鄕新聞", 1971
- "Kyŏnghyang sinmun 京鄕新聞", 1981
- Ambrose, Gavin, "The Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design" (2007), AVA
- Cho, Haejoang, "Under Construction: The Gendering of Modernity, Class, and Consumption in the Republic of Korea", pp.165~195 (2002), University of Hawai’i Press
- 최호정, "우먼파워로 나타나는 최근 패션스타일에 관한 연구", 복식, 55(2), pp.129~142 (2005), 한국복식학회
- DeLong, Marilyn, "Jeans: A Comparison of Perceptions of Meaning in Korea and the United States", Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 16(3), pp.116~125 (1998)
- Entwistle, Joanne, "Fashion and the Fleshy Body : Dress as Embodied Practice", Fashion Theory : The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, 4(3), pp.323~347 (2000)
- Kaiser, Susan B, "Fashion and Cultural Studies" (2012), Berg
- Kim, Charles R, "Youth for Nation : Culture and Protest in Cold War South Korea" (2017), University of Hawai’i Press
- 김종희, "1960~1970년대 여성지에 나타난 근대적 주거공간 및 주거문화 담론에 관한 연구", 미디어, 젠더 & 문화, (10), pp.109~155 (2008), 한국여성커뮤니케이션학회
- Kim Eun-Shil, "The Cultural Logic of the Korean Modernization Project and Its Gender Politics", Asian Journal of Women’s Studies, 6(2), pp.50~77 (2000)
- "K-Fashion: Wearing a New Future" (2012)[URL]
- 김미진, "근대이후 여성 생활한복의 특징 및 변천", 한국의상디자인학회지, 7(2), pp.261~282 (2005), 한국의상디자인학회
- Kim, Suk-Young., "Dressed to Kill : Women’s Fashion and Body Politics in North Korean Visual Media(1960s-1970s)", positions : east asia cultures critique, 19(1), pp.159~191 (2011)
- 김영찬, "1960년대 후반 여성지를 통해 본 근대적 패션과 소비문화에 관한 연구", 커뮤니케이션 이론, 8(2), pp.154~196 (2012), 한국언론학회[DOI]
- Lee, Heijin S., "Fashion and Beauty in the Time of Asia", pp.1~20 (2019), New York University Press
- Lee, Heijin S., "Fashion and Beauty in the Time of Asia" (2019), New York University Press
- Luther Hillman, Betty, "Dressing for the Culture Wars : Style and the Politics of Self-presentation in the 1960s and 1970s" (2015), University of Nebraska Press
- Moon, Seungsook, "Militarized Modernity and Gendered Citizenship in South Korea" (2005), Duke University Press
- Paoletti, Jo B, "Sex and Unisex : Fashion, Feminism, and the Sexual Revolution" (2015), Indiana University Press
- Pyun, Kyunghee, "Fashion, Identity, and Power in Modern Asia", pp.285~306 (2018), Palgrave Macmillan
- Pyun, Kyunghee, "Fashion, Identity, and Power in Modern Asia" (2018), Palgrave Macmillan
- Robinson, Michael, "Korea’s Twentieth-Century Odyssey : A Short History" (2007), University of Hawai’i Press
- Sin Hyesun 신혜순, (2008), Misul Munhwa
- Yi Chaegyŏng 이재경, (2013), Arŭk’e
- 이민정, "4.19 혁명과 5.16 군사정변기의 이데올로기와 복식", 한국의류산업학회지, 16(5), pp.706~718 (2014), 한국의류산업학회