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일본 교토 니시진 비단 직조 산업이 직면한 과제

Challenges Surrounding the Survival of the Nishijin Silk Weaving Industry in Kyoto, Japan

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초록

천 년이 넘는 세월 동안 일본의 수도였던 교토는 왕실, 귀족, 그 외 부유층의 까다로운 취향과 요구를 맞추기 위해 다양한 수공업이 발전했다. 교토 북부 니시진 지역에서 일일이 손으로 직조하여 생산하는 비단은 그 중 대표적인 산물이다. 그러나 지난 20~30년간 이어진 경제 불황으로 인해 생활양식에 변화가 일고 기능을 전수받을 후계자가 줄어들면서 오랜 전통을 자랑하는 니시진 비단 직조 분야가 초유의 위기를맞게 됐다. 이 논문은 니시진 직물 고유의 생산 및 거래 방식이 태어나게 된 역사적 배경을 살피고, 이 분야가 직면한 위기의 본질을 분석한뒤 경제 불황으로 인해 초래된 어려움에 맞서 전통을 이어가기 위해 어떤 노력이 진행되고 있는지 설명한다. 이를 통해 현대 사회에서 수공예전통을 보존 및 전승할 수 있는 효과적인 방법 및 수공예 전통의 문화적 의미에 대해 고찰한다.

Abstract

Kyoto, Japan’s capital for more than a millennium, has developed many handicraft industries catering to the increasingly sophisticated demands of the Imperial court, the aristocracy and prosperous townspeople. The hand-woven silk produced in the Nishijin area in the north of Kyoto city is one of the most renowned of these. For the past few decades, however, this age-old craft industry has been facing an unprecedented crisis as a result of continual economic recession, overall changes in lifestyle and the difficulties of securing successors to carry on the craft. This paper will examine the historical background of the development of the specific mode of production and trade in Nishijin textiles; it will then analyse the nature of the crisis and describe various efforts to maintain and revitalise the heritage in the face of stringent economic circumstances. What the present study ultimately aims to do is to reconsider possible ways of preserving handicraft traditions in the modern world and to explore their cultural meanings.

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