조선시대 문헌에 나타난 선잠제향 복식 검토

Abstract

Seonjamje is ceremonial rite to honor mr.Seoleung who taught the people how to breed silkworms for the first time. Through joseon dynasty period, ceremonial rites related to breeding silkworms had reorganized as the national level. Since the joseon dynasty claimed to advocate practical improvement of life condition, the dynasty enforced various ceremonies related to public welfare positively. Seonjamje in joseon dynasty had undergone three stages from 1400 to 1767. Seonjamjehyang was the first stage and only national officers called ‘Jaeguan’ participated in this rite. In the second phase the ceremonial rite ‘Chinjamrye’ was added to the whole ceremony, Seonjamje in 1477. In the rite of Chinjamrye, the queen in person picked the mulberry leaves and participated in the ceremony. The third phase had shown in 1767. At the third stage, a queen supervised ‘Jakheonrye’ and held the rite ‘Chinjamrye’. Also overall procedures of ceremony had expanded and reorganized. This study inquired into the ceremonial costume of ‘Jaequan’ and the queen. The result is as follows. First, the costume of ‘Jaeguan’ differed according to the rites and roles. Jaeguan wore sangbok when he carried out the rite ‘Hisaeng’ and Jaeguan changed into special uniform at the rite ‘Hangrye’. Jeonak wore nokchosam and Gongin wore hongjuii. Munmoo, the dancers, wore namjuii with jinhyunguan and Mumoo wore namjuii with pibyun. Secondly, the costume of queen differ from rite to rite. On the recording of 『Chinjameugye』 specific kinds of costume was not mentioned. However 『Annals of the Joseon Dynasty』, 『Gukjooryeui』, 『Chinjameugye』, 『Seungjeongwon Ilgi』 recorded that the queen wore jeogui with susik in the rite of Jakheonrye and wore kukui in Chinjamrye. And after Chaesangrye the queen changed her clothes into jeokui with susik to greet people who participated in the ceremony. In this study, the word ‘Yebok’ has defined in the meaning of clothes which is worn in the ceremonial rites.