20세기 초 몽골복식유물의 기원과 형태의 상징에 관한 연구

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to correctly understand the origin and meanings of shapes of Mongolian costumes in early 20'th Mongolia. 'Terlig' or 'telig' with pleats at the waist, which had remained in Buryat, had close connection with Korean costumes, 'cholrik', after 12-13 century. It was Designed for adapting to horse riding activities, and the color of sky-blue had the meaning of 'Great God (Mngke-tenggeri)'.The Khalkha ladies' dresses of the Ch'ing Intervention Era have teregur ushi(round hair) in the shape of a bull's horn or a eagle's wing, and tuntger mrtei(high shoulders) in their deel as the representative nomadic symbols and the spirit of independence as nomadic people. This kind of deel included a Western pocket and a skill of western pattern making. Mongolian ladies' sleeveless uudji with waist-pleats in 19-20century had designed by empress Chabai in Yan period, for horse riding and archery. Knee-covering narrow-sleeved long deel and two-pieces Tsamts(jacket and trousers) for men and unmarried women alike had occurred for protection against the cold of Mongolian nomadic environment originally. It was preserved in 19-20'th mongolian deel with details of Ching's costumes- high chinese collar, square opening, majesu(馬蹄袖).19-20'th Mongolian costumes were the complex art of costume, which had included ancient nomadic costume's distinctions, nomadic symbols as the spirit of independence, Ching's details and material, Western features, characters of Lamanism.