복탁의 起源과 變遷에 관한 硏究
A Study on the Origin and the Changes of ‘Bogtag’ Hat
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A unique item of garments, which distinguishes as the real “Mongolian” from among many ethnical groups in the world, is the matchless and remarkable hat of the Mongol women of that time, the bogtag. The origination of bogtag, the Mongolian hat, is diverse with several theories such as the creation by hunting nomads, the emergence during the reign of Kükül, symbolic representation of Shamanism or animalism. Bogtag appears on the ninth century paintings but it became huge popular during the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, and such fame is closely related to the stretch of the Mongol Empire(Greater Mongol State). It is consisted of three main parts such as the wearing part or bottom, the middle part or connecting part of the lower and upper parts of the hat, and the narrowed upper part of birch bark. Its top is square likewise the top of pillar and wrapped with expensive textile. On the top of it is stuck a peacock feather, then it is decorated with gem-stones, and line of duck feathers. Rich ladies wear this hat over another hat with fashion of hood, which has a special hole on its top, through what they get through their plaited hair in one braid, and then tie the hat under chin. All the archeological findings and historical facts confirms that the bogtag was an item of garments indicating only the married women, which had ancient heritage and specific fashion and form distinguished it from hats of other nations and ethnic groups. Detail observation of the hats of the queens of the Yuan Dynasty from the portraits reveals that the queens wore a pearl decoration completed in form of “khatan süikh”. In decoration of the bogtag, the hat of married women, colour played important role, indicating age and social rank, family origin and livelihood level, and social status. In accordance with written sources and paintings, royal queens, aristocratic women used red textile, gold brocade silk in their head garments, while the ordinary women wore hats with warm colour silks such as brown, yellow and green as the excavated bogtags, taken out from burial sites belonged to common people. Bogtag became popular during the reign of Chinggis Khan and the feather ornament of it was the most splendid and tallest in the thirteenth century. In the late thirteenth century the hat and feather ornament became shorter. According to documents, the height of bogtag existed from 28 centimeters to 112 centimeters, and bogtag was worn by married women and queens for court ceremonies. The tallest feather ornaments, four times higher than the body of the hat, appear in paintings during the reign of Tolui. The hat and feather ornaments were the shortest in the reign of Hülegü. Since Qubilai Qa'an established the Yuan Dynasty in 1271, the sizes of bogtag were classified into the large, medium, and small, and in addition, more diverse materials and ornaments were used. In the late fourteenth century, the height of the hat became shorter, but various feather ornaments were attached or bogtag without any feather ornaments also appeared. Bogtag is a representative ceremonial hat, which was worn by Mongol married women, was popular in Eurasian territory during the Pax Mongolica, the Mongol Empire in the thirteenth and fourteenth century. The Mongol Empire or Greater Mongol State emerged from a nomadic state and expanded its territory to conquest most of Eurasia and the sea. Along with the Mongol Empire’s stretch, the traditional Mongol women’s ceremonial hat, bogtag, was spread all over the Eurasia.
Abstract
A unique item of garments, which distinguishes as the real “Mongolian” from among many ethnical groups in the world, is the matchless and remarkable hat of the Mongol women of that time, the bogtag. The origination of bogtag, the Mongolian hat, is diverse with several theories such as the creation by hunting nomads, the emergence during the reign of Kükül, symbolic representation of Shamanism or animalism. Bogtag appears on the ninth century paintings but it became huge popular during the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, and such fame is closely related to the stretch of the Mongol Empire(Greater Mongol State). It is consisted of three main parts such as the wearing part or bottom, the middle part or connecting part of the lower and upper parts of the hat, and the narrowed upper part of birch bark. Its top is square likewise the top of pillar and wrapped with expensive textile. On the top of it is stuck a peacock feather, then it is decorated with gem-stones, and line of duck feathers. Rich ladies wear this hat over another hat with fashion of hood, which has a special hole on its top, through what they get through their plaited hair in one braid, and then tie the hat under chin. All the archeological findings and historical facts confirms that the bogtag was an item of garments indicating only the married women, which had ancient heritage and specific fashion and form distinguished it from hats of other nations and ethnic groups. Detail observation of the hats of the queens of the Yuan Dynasty from the portraits reveals that the queens wore a pearl decoration completed in form of “khatan süikh”. In decoration of the bogtag, the hat of married women, colour played important role, indicating age and social rank, family origin and livelihood level, and social status. In accordance with written sources and paintings, royal queens, aristocratic women used red textile, gold brocade silk in their head garments, while the ordinary women wore hats with warm colour silks such as brown, yellow and green as the excavated bogtags, taken out from burial sites belonged to common people. Bogtag became popular during the reign of Chinggis Khan and the feather ornament of it was the most splendid and tallest in the thirteenth century. In the late thirteenth century the hat and feather ornament became shorter. According to documents, the height of bogtag existed from 28 centimeters to 112 centimeters, and bogtag was worn by married women and queens for court ceremonies. The tallest feather ornaments, four times higher than the body of the hat, appear in paintings during the reign of Tolui. The hat and feather ornaments were the shortest in the reign of Hülegü. Since Qubilai Qa'an established the Yuan Dynasty in 1271, the sizes of bogtag were classified into the large, medium, and small, and in addition, more diverse materials and ornaments were used. In the late fourteenth century, the height of the hat became shorter, but various feather ornaments were attached or bogtag without any feather ornaments also appeared. Bogtag is a representative ceremonial hat, which was worn by Mongol married women, was popular in Eurasian territory during the Pax Mongolica, the Mongol Empire in the thirteenth and fourteenth century. The Mongol Empire or Greater Mongol State emerged from a nomadic state and expanded its territory to conquest most of Eurasia and the sea. Along with the Mongol Empire’s stretch, the traditional Mongol women’s ceremonial hat, bogtag, was spread all over the Eurasia.
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