알타이출토 고대 유목민 복식에 관한 연구
A Study on the ancient nomadic costume unearthed from Altai
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초록
Generally speaking, the culture of a specific ethnic group is closely related to their everyday life, and the same principle applies to costumes. The costumes of nomadic people priorities their mobility, and the origin of this characteristic comes from the horseback riding culture of the northern nomadic people. The region of Altai is defined by its high mountainous areas, and it is also surrounded by a glacier patch. This glacier patch created a permanent frost and thus preserved a significant amount of relics, including costumes from the past. Especially, as the Altaic people did not develop separate clothing for the deceased, the remaining objects enable us to examine the everyday attire of the ancient nomadic people. This study examines these unearthed costume relics from the permafrost area, mostly that come from BCE 6C to BCE 2C. Frozen, but mainly remained intact for a long time, the following examination of these relics will enable us to reconstruct everyday attire of the ancient nomadic people and also highlight the aspects of East-West cultural exchange. Specifically, the study will focus on how these unearthed costumes came to their current form, and analyze the headgear, hairstyle, the upper garment, undergarment, jackets, long tights and boots, belts and accessories, as well as the fabric and its pattern. It will also examine these relics focusing on their expected function, materials, and accessories. In this process, I have personally reviewed the Sycthian and Persian costume depicted at the Persepolis, Susa and Bistoon, as well as the so-called golden-man of Issyk kurgan, the relics from the Pazyryk and Noyon-UUl currently housed at the Hermitage Museum, and the Mongolian and Kazakstanian relics recently displayed at special exhibitions hosted by the National Museum of Korea. The study has also thoroughly examined written sources, previously published catalogs, and other former studies. Based on this examination, we can reconstruct a typical ancient nomad who would wear a cone-shaped hat with bird decorations, pants with gusset, Kaftan style jackets or coats with set-in sleeve, and put on boots or long tights. These are standard characteristics found in many ancient nomadic costume relics. Most of these costumes were made of leather or felt, and decorations were made of gold, applying methods of applique. Also, tattoos on the individuals also became part of the costumes. Significant features of these costumes, such as the cone-shaped headgear, gold and gold decorations, flat open neck upper garment, animal style decorations, pants with gusset, set in sleeve, and Kaftans with tails all reflect that the unearthed costumes combined various elements of Scythian, Persians, Central Asia, and Siberian costumes. Notably, the existence of Griffin shapes reveals their close connections with the Achaemenid Persian empire, and other silk and copper mirrors discovered together also demonstrate the close East and West connections.
Abstract
Generally speaking, the culture of a specific ethnic group is closely related to their everyday life, and the same principle applies to costumes. The costumes of nomadic people priorities their mobility, and the origin of this characteristic comes from the horseback riding culture of the northern nomadic people. The region of Altai is defined by its high mountainous areas, and it is also surrounded by a glacier patch. This glacier patch created a permanent frost and thus preserved a significant amount of relics, including costumes from the past. Especially, as the Altaic people did not develop separate clothing for the deceased, the remaining objects enable us to examine the everyday attire of the ancient nomadic people. This study examines these unearthed costume relics from the permafrost area, mostly that come from BCE 6C to BCE 2C. Frozen, but mainly remained intact for a long time, the following examination of these relics will enable us to reconstruct everyday attire of the ancient nomadic people and also highlight the aspects of East-West cultural exchange. Specifically, the study will focus on how these unearthed costumes came to their current form, and analyze the headgear, hairstyle, the upper garment, undergarment, jackets, long tights and boots, belts and accessories, as well as the fabric and its pattern. It will also examine these relics focusing on their expected function, materials, and accessories. In this process, I have personally reviewed the Sycthian and Persian costume depicted at the Persepolis, Susa and Bistoon, as well as the so-called golden-man of Issyk kurgan, the relics from the Pazyryk and Noyon-UUl currently housed at the Hermitage Museum, and the Mongolian and Kazakstanian relics recently displayed at special exhibitions hosted by the National Museum of Korea. The study has also thoroughly examined written sources, previously published catalogs, and other former studies. Based on this examination, we can reconstruct a typical ancient nomad who would wear a cone-shaped hat with bird decorations, pants with gusset, Kaftan style jackets or coats with set-in sleeve, and put on boots or long tights. These are standard characteristics found in many ancient nomadic costume relics. Most of these costumes were made of leather or felt, and decorations were made of gold, applying methods of applique. Also, tattoos on the individuals also became part of the costumes. Significant features of these costumes, such as the cone-shaped headgear, gold and gold decorations, flat open neck upper garment, animal style decorations, pants with gusset, set in sleeve, and Kaftans with tails all reflect that the unearthed costumes combined various elements of Scythian, Persians, Central Asia, and Siberian costumes. Notably, the existence of Griffin shapes reveals their close connections with the Achaemenid Persian empire, and other silk and copper mirrors discovered together also demonstrate the close East and West connections.
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