『隨園食單』 속 袁枚의 儒道 실천 양상 연구

Abstract

In 1792, Yuanmei published a book titled “Suiyuanshidan(隨園食單)”, which compiled the recipes he used over 40 years in Suiyuan, as well as his culinary exchanges with people around him. Suiyuanshidan contains 12 sections with 349 recipes and food critiques. It also includes "Xuzhidan(須知單)" which lists essential knowledge that chefs must be aware of, and "Jiedan(戒單)" which outlines things chefs should be wary of. However, in ancient times, it was considered improper for scholars to discuss food. Culinary matters were originally the domain of common folk and did not align with the refined nature of Confucianism. Yuanmei is believed to have included food within the Confucian framework to overcome this prejudice. In fact, the abundant quotations from Confucian sages in Suiyuanshidan suggest his intent. This paper aims to closely examine the sections on Xuzhidan and Jiedan in Suiyuanshidan to explore how Yuanmei practiced Confucian principles. The first thing Yuanmei emphasized in practicing Confucianism was the importance of fundamentals. In Confucian thought, when one's fundamentals are correct, all subsequent actions will also manifest correctly. Thus, Yuanmei stressed that the chef’s duties and the inherent qualities of ingredients are the starting points for creating excellent dishes. Furthermore, Yuanmei assessed the merit of tradition. The standard for assessing right and wrong in food was its quality of taste. Based on this criterion, Yuanmei determined whether to follow old recipes and traditional culinary customs. Yuanmei also sought to practice “中道(the Way of Zhong)” through harmony and moderation. “中(Zhong)” refers to an appropriate state where harmony and moderation are balanced. Likewise, the goal of food is a harmonious flavor. At the same time, a chef must know how to moderate flavors through the cooking process. Lastly, Yuanmei sought to realize “忠恕(Zhongshu)” through food. Zhongshu is a principle highly valued in Confucianism, which involves understanding others by using oneself as a basis. Yuanmei’s concept of Zhongshu extended to both the guests who were served food and the animals sacrificed as ingredients. Yuanmei's practice of Confucian principles in Suiyuanshidan is not only diverse but also appears across various domains such as the cooking process, the preservation of traditions, and the hospitality towards guests. By infusing Confucian values into his culinary pursuits, Yuanmei legitimized his involvement in the world of food. This approach was a rare perspective among scholars of his time and reveals Yuanmei’s unique philosophy regarding food.