종묘제례 악인樂人 복식의 변천에 관한 연구

Abstract

The objective of this study was to analyze the historical evolution of musician costumes in the Royal Ancestral Ritual (Jongmyojerye) at the Jongmyo Shrine during the Joseon Dynasty and compare them. The costumes of the music master (jipbagaksa), deungga and heonga musicians (akgong), and dancers of the line formation dance (Ilmu) were examined, and the results are presented below. Firstly, the attire of jipbagaksa consisted of bokdu, nokchosam, ojeongdae, and heukhwa. Nokchosam is a side-blocked gongbok type robe with a round collar and wide sleeves, which was replaced with dallyeong during the late Joseon Dynasty. During the Korean Empire period, they temporarily wore bokdu, ganggongbok, baekjujungdan, bibaekdaedae, baekpomal, opiri, and bangsimgongnyeong. Secondly, deungga and heonga musicians wore gaechaek, biransam, baekjujungdan, baekchodae, baekpomal, and opiri during the early Joseon Dynasty. In the late Joseon Dynasty, biransam was replaced with hongjuui. The jungdan disappeared shortly after the Imjin invasion (imjinwaeran) but was reintroduced in the late 18th century. White bands (baengmaldae) or navy strings (namsadae) were used depending on the time period. Thirdly, the attire of Ilmu gongin remained unchanged from the early Joseon Dynasty to the Korean Empire period. The dancer of the Botaepyeongjimu wore a jinhyeongwan and held the yak and jeok, while the Jeongdaeeopjimu dancer wore a pibyeon and carried swords, spears, bows, and arrows. The double’s composition remained the same, but they wore namjuui, jeoksangjoyeon, jeogmaldae, baekpomal, and opiri. Jeoksang was worn over namjuui in the early Joseon Dynasty but was worn inside namjuui since the mid-19th century. After 1897, the attire of Ilmu gongin underwent a complete revision, incorporating bokdu, hongjuui, namsadae, and heukhwa. These modifications, introduced in 1897, have been perpetuated up to the present day. The Jongmyojerye tradition is still transmitted and preserved at a national level, given its historical significance. It has been ascertained that the costumes worn by participants in contemporary Jongmyojerye rituals are based on historical records by era. However, some of these costumes might exhibit elements of convenience or decoration.