『부인필지』 의복 편의 복식사적 의미 연구

Abstract

This study analyzes and examines the section on Clothing within Buinpilji (부인필지) authored in 1908 by Lee Sook, a teacher at Myeongshin Women's School and explores this work’s significance in sartorial history. Buinpilji holds significance as it was written by a female educator during a period of increasing emphasis on women's education, and it is particularly notable as an example of a textbook published in pure Hangul script. This research investigates different editions of Buinpilj, including the 1908 edition printed by Woomungwan, a manuscript copy held in Gyujanggak, and a copy transcribed at Sangmungak, a printing house. Comparing these editions reveals that the Gyujanggak manuscript predates the 1908 print edition. A comparison of the content with Gyuhapchongseo (규합총서) indicates that Lee Sook's Buinpilji considerably referred to the edition Gyunhapchongseo held in Komozawa University Library, but she did not follow the structural framework of Gyuhapchongseo. Rather, Lee organized her book into sections on Clothing and Material and incorporated various modern concepts as subheadings. The content of the general discussion written at the beginning of the chapter Clothing diverges significantly from that of Gyuhapchongseo Bongimcheuk, the chapter on clothing, reflecting a departure from the worldview on attire presented in the latter. However, it does consolidate some reformist ideas proposed by late Joseon scholars, reflecting a transitional period between tradition and modernity in clothing culture. Additionally, this text includes content on reforms such as abolishing headgear, women's skirts, and sleeveless robes for children, as well as the reorganization of ceremonial attire, demonstrating the trends of modern clothing following of the opening of Korea’s ports. It also encompasses some guidelines on ordinary attire for men and women as specified in modern school regulations. In conclusion, Buinpilji selectively inherits and continues the recording tradition of the late Joseon period while also exhibiting the characteristics of a transitional textbook integrating modern clothing culture. Through Buinpilji, one can observe the study and education of attire by female intellectuals who actively differentiated and selected between traditional and modern clothing cultures during a period of rapid transformation influenced by the influx of new Western culture.