근대 요리책의 계통과 지식 전승 -출판인쇄본 <부인필지>, <조선요리제법>, <조선무쌍신식요리제법>을 중심으로-

Abstract

Cookbook is generally researched as primary historical materials to reveal the history of food, the culinary culture and the history of daily life. Since studying cookbook was based on premise that recipes and cooking knowledges indicate contemporary life exactly when it had been written. However, previous research did not verified social cultural context of the cookbook’s origin and the aspect of contained recipes’s transmission. The aim of this paper is first of all to compare and contrast original text of three cookbooks which were published in the modern period; <BuInPilji(부인필지, 婦人必知)>, <JoseonYoriJaebup(조선요리제법, 朝鮮料理製法)>, <JoseonMussangSinsikYoriJaebup(조선무쌍신식요리제법, 朝鮮無雙新式料理製法)>. <BuInPilji> was published in 1908 and this is the digest of <Gyuhapchongseo(규합총서, 閨閤叢書)> which is the collection of housekeeping written in Joseon period. Published <BuInPilji> never been highlighted before was published by publisher called Umungwan(우문관) and the writer is LeeSuk(이숙) who was the teacher of MyoungShin(명신) Women’s school. Also the first edition of <JoseonYoriJaebup> published in 1917 copied almost half of the recipes the previous cookbook, <BuInPilji>. Another cookbook named <JoseonMussangSinsikYoriJaebup> copied large amount of recipes from the books such as <SanlimGyeongjae(산림경제)>, <JeoungboSanlimGyeonjae(증보산림경제)>, <NongjeongHuiyo(농정회요)> or <Junsaengpaljeon(준생팔전)>, <SuweonSikdan(수원식단)>, <JoseonYoriJaebup(조선요리제법)>. Overall, this study analyzed the process of transmitting the recipes one book to another in three ways. 1. The feature of manuscript and printed book 2. The narrative choiced by the author and the type of transmission 3. The genealogy of knowledge transmission On account of printing technology, the knowledge of cooking transmitting through literation has been communicated to the public. The reader of the cookbook which consist of literated recipes from previous cookbook can experiment transmitted knowledge and the food can be revived by literacy not orality. Consequently, this study criticizes the previous viewpoints that folk knowledge only can be transmitted by the orality and suggests transmission of knowledge can be discovered in the point of written culture(literate culture). Also it criticizes the habitual routine using cookbook as materials in culinary folklore studies and suggests how to research the cookbooks in the perspective of sociocultural context and knowledge transmission through the case study of two modern printed cookbooks. However this study could not interview the readers of cookbooks, reading method of the cookbook also could not have been investigated. There should be field researches and interviews with readers(such as the student of earlier times) for further research. Also it presents the possibility that can research another cookbooks in the perspective of knowledge transmission.