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꾸지뽕나무 가지 추출물을 이용한 미백 기능성 화장품 소재 개발

Development of Whitening Cosmetic Ingredients from Cudrania tricuspidata Stem Extract

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초록

목적: 본 연구는 꾸지뽕나무 가지 추출물의 미백 기능성 화장품 소재로서의 발전 가능성을 확인하는데 그 목적이 있다. 방법: TLC 및 HPLC 분석을 통해 꾸지뽕나무 분획물(헥산, 아세트산에틸, 부탄올, 물)의 항산화 물질 함유여부를 확인하였고, 항산화 효과를 확인하기 위하여 DPPH, ABTS free radical 및 superoxide 소거 활성 시험을 진행하였다. 그리고 티로시나제 억제율과 멜라닌 생합성률 확인 실험을 통해 꾸지뽕나무의 미백 효능을 확인하였다. 결과: Radical 및 superoxide 관련 항산화능 평가 실험을 통해서 그 정도의 차이가 있으나, 꾸지뽕나무 가지 분획물 중 아세트산에틸 분획물 및 부탄올분획물에서 각각의 양성대조군과 유사한 항산화 활성을 나타냄을 확인하였으며, 특히 아세트산에틸 분획물이 가장 우수한항산화 활성을 보였다. 미백 효과와 관련하여 티로시나제 활성 억제 실험을 수행한 결과, 아세트산에틸 분획물(IC50 24.4 ppm)과 부탄올 분획물(IC50 88.3 ppm)에서 티로시나제 활성 억제 효과를 확인할 수 있었고, 멜라닌 생합성 억제 평가 실험에서도 아세트산에틸, 부탄올 분획물에서 멜라닌 생성이 농도의존적으로 줄어들었다. 결론: 상기 실험결과를 통해, 꾸지뽕나무 가지 추출물은 향후 항산화 및 미백 효과를 가지고 있는 기능성 화장품 소재로의 발전이 가능할 것으로 사료된다.

Abstract

Purpose: This study was conducted to investigate the possibility of Cudrania tricuspidata (C. tricuspidata) stem extract as whitening cosmetic material. Methods: We performed TLC and HPLC analysis to investigate the anti-oxidant compounds and its contents in C. tricuspidata stem extract fractions (hexane, ethyl acetate, butanol, and water). In order to evaluate anti-oxidant effects, radical and superoxide scavenging activities were conducted by using DPPH, ABTS free radicals and xanthine oxidases, respectively. In addition, we examined tyrosinase activity and cellular melanin content to verify the whitening effects of C. tricuspidata stem extract. Results: We found out that both ethyl acetate fraction and butanol fraction among the fractions of C. tricuspidata stem extract had anti-oxidant compounds. Our results pointed out that the active fractions have significant free radical and superoxide scavenging activities, and the fraction of ethyl acetate is the best. The ethyl acetate fraction (IC50 24.4 ppm) and butanol fraction (IC50 88.3 ppm) reduced tyrosinase activities and melanin content in a concentration-dependent manner. Conclusion: Through the results, C. tricuspidata stem extract has the potent as a cosmetic material which possess the anti-oxidant and whitening effects.

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