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멜라닌 생합성 저해를 통한 지모뿌리추출물에서의 새로운 천연 미백소재의 개발

New Development of Natural Depigmentation Agent from Anemarrhena asphodeloides Root Extracts by Inhibition of Melanin Biosynthesis

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목적: 본 연구는 지모뿌리추출물에 의한 미백효과를 확인하기 위한 것이다. 방법: 지모뿌리추출물에 의한 tyrosinase 활성 억제 및 B16F10 melanoma 세포를 이용하여 멜라닌 생합성을 측정하였으며 지모뿌리추출물 크림을 제조하여 임상연구도 함께 수행하였다. 결과: Tyrosinase 활성 및 α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)에 의하여 유도되는 멜라닌 생합성이 지모뿌리추출물에 의하여 농도 의존적으로 저해되는 것을 확인하였다. 특히, 25 μg/mL의 농도에서 지모뿌리추출물(28.4%)은 잘 알려진 멜라닌 생합성 저해제인 알부틴(24.7%)보다 더 효과적으로 멜라닌 생합성을 저해하였다. 임상연구에서는, 자외선으로 시험자의 피부에 색소침착을 유도한 후 지모뿌리추출물이 2% 함유된 크림 제형을 사용하도록 한 후 8 주 동안 피부 미백 효과를 조사하였다. 시험 결과에 의하면 과색소침착 정도, 멜라닌 지수, 그리고 피부 밝기가 유의적으로 개선되었다. 결론: 지모뿌리추출물은 피부 미백을 위한 기능성 화장품 소재로서의 높은 가능성을 기대하게 한다

Abstract

Purpose: This study aimed to confim the depigmentation effects from Anemarrhena asphodeloides root extracts (AARE). Methods: We assessed tyrosinase inhibition activity of AARE and investigated the biosynthesis of melanin in B16F10 melanoma cells and subjected to clinical trials with AARE creams. Results: Tyrosinase activity and melanin biosynthesis induced by α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH) were inhibited by AARE in a concentration-dependent manner. In particular, at 25 μg/mL concentration, melanin biosynthesis was more effectively inhibited by AARE (28.4%) than arbutin (24.7%; a well-known melanin synthesis inhibitor). In clinical trials, we investigated the changes in human skin brightness values over eight weeks using a cream formulation that contained 2% AARE after inducing pigmentation via ultraviolet irradiation. We showed that the hyperpigmentation degree, melanin index, and skin brightness were signifiantly improved. Conclusion: AARE is expected to become widely available as a functional cosmetic material for skin whitening.

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