비타민나무열매, 블랙베리잎과 약용들깨잎의 추출물 복합제를 이용한 복합 기능성 화 장품 소재 개발
Development of Functional Cosmetic Material Using a Combination of Hippophae rhamnoides Fruit, Rubus fruticosus Leaf and Perillae folium Leaf Extracts
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목적: 본 연구는 천연추출복합물을 이용한 기능성 화장품 소재개발을 위한 효력시험을 통해 검증하고자 한다. 방법: 천연추출복합물의 개별적인 elasterase 억제능, DPPH 라디칼 소거능, nitric oxide 억제능, tyrosinase 억제능, ROS 생성 억제능을 측정하여design of experiment (DOE)를 통한 최적의 배합비를 찾고 최종 배합비에 따른 효능을 확인 하였다. 결과: 천연추출복합물을 이용한 DOE는 각 천연물의 효능을 극대화 하여 최적의 배합비를 예측했을 때 비타민나무열매:블랙베리잎:약용들깨잎(0.25:0.7:0.05) 의 배합비에서 최적의 효능을 나타냈다. 도출된 배합비를 바탕으로 주름개선의 지표인 elesterase 억제 효능을 확인하였을 때 음성대조군 대비 28% (500 µg/mL)의 억제 효과를 나타내었다. 항산화 지표인 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) 라디칼 소거능도 음성 대조군 대비 71.8% 의 활성 효능을 나타내었다. 또한 염증 모델인 RAW 264.7세포에 lipopolysaccharides (LPS) 로 유도된nitric oxide(NO)의 억제 효능도 대조구 대비 87.1%의 활성을 나타내었고 미백 지표인 tyrosinase 억제 효능도 대조군 대비 24.4% 의 효과를 확인하였다. 활성 산소종에 의한 세포 보호 효능을 알아 보기 위한 human dermal fibroblast (HDF) 세포에 hydrogen peroxide (H2 O2 )로 reactive oxygen species (ROS)를 유도한 모델에서도 유의적인 활성 산소종의 억제 효능을 나타내었다. 결론: 비타민나무열매, 블랙베리잎, 약용들깨잎의 천연 추출 복합물은 주름개선과 항산화 항염과 미백에 효과가 있는 것으로 확인되어 기능성 화장품 소재로의 개발이 가능한 것으로 사료된다.
Abstract
Purpose: This study aimed to determine the optimal blending ratio of extracts of Hippophae rhamnoides (H. rhamnoides) fruit, Rubus fruticosus (R. fruticosus) leaf, and Perillae folium (P. folium) leaf as a potential functional material for antiwrinkle, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and whitening properties. Methods: We used the design of experiment (DOE) efficacy method to identify the optimal blend ratio for a natural extract complex. In addition, we tested the efficacy of the extract complex and the individual extracts by experiments, including elastase inhibition assay, NO inhibition assay, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity assay, tyrosinase inhibition assay, and ROS inhibition assay. Results: DOE methods using natural extracts showed that the most efficacious ratio of H. rhamnoides fruit: R. fruticosus leaf: P. folium leaf was 0.25:0.7:0.05. At this ratio, the elastase inhibitory effect, an indicator of wrinkle improvement, was 28% compared to the control. The antioxidant activity was 71.8% higher than the control. Additionally, NO formation was significantly suppressed by the extract complex. Tyrosinase inhibitory activity, a whitening index, showed 24.4% improvement over the control. Finally, hydrogen peroxide-induced cytotoxicity was significantly inhibited following treatment with the extract complex. Conclusion: The natural extract complex of H. rhamnoides, R. Fruticosus, and P. folium was found to have beneficial wrinkle improvement, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and whitening effects, and has potential as a functional cosmetic material.
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