‘좁은 깃’적삼(赤衫)에 관한 연구 -조선시대 출토복식을 중심으로-

Abstract

This study is about Narrow Collar’s Jeoksam appeared in excavated clothing of Joseon Dynasty. Total 12 ‘Narrow Collar’s Jeoksam’ were confirmed including 8 cases in Gyeonggi Province and Chungcheong Province in Korea. The purpose of this research is to examine form, material, and sewing method of Narrow Collar’s Jeoksam through Narrow Collar’s Jeoksam relics excavated intensively in the late 15th Century and the 16th Century, and search for periodic characteristics based on this. As a result of this research, the greatest difference between general Jeoksam and Narrow Collar’s Jeoksam was at first that the collar width as in 2～4cm is clearly distinguished by the collar width of general Jeoksam. Also, ‘hanging Square-Tray-Collar in inside’ and ‘hanging Square-Tray-Collar in outside’ which was appeared in general Jeoksam was not only indicated but also narrow ancient ‘symmetric collar’ was appeared. Secondly, two forms of seop were appeared, and while it was appeared as general jacket form in ‘hanging Square-Tray-Collar in inside’ Jeoksam, it was appeared as corrugated trapezoidal seop in the symmetric collar. Thirdly, the fabric used in Narrow Collar’s Jeoksam was similar to the fabric used in general Jeoksam, and the difference was that the material use of hemp cloth is rare and relatively the use of silk fabrics was much.