17세기 여자 수의용 칼깃 저고리 사례와 사용 원인에 대한 시론적 고찰
Historical Consideration of Kal-Git(knife shape collar) style of Jeogori used as woman’s shroud in Joseon Dynasty during 17th Century
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More than 200 cases of excavated costumes are currently reported to be worn during Joseon dynasty. Amongst those, Kal-Git Jeogori used for a women’s shroud has appeared during late 16th Century to 17th Century, just after long time national turmoil. It is generally understood that Kal-Git style has been used for men’s Jeogori, and Mok Pan-Git(square collar), Dang Ko Mok Pan-Git for women’s Jeogori. With this reason, excavated Kal-Git Jeogori for women’s shroud was under consideration as wearing men’s collar type by women’s gender. This study concentrates to prove the historical reason on the appearance of unusual style of women’s shroud. To understand this particular event, the status of excavated Kal-Git Jeogori style of women’s shroud has investigated, and pursued the reason of wearing Kal-Git style women’s Jeogori trying to match with historical and social background of excavated periods, 16∼17th Century. Joseon dynasty has encountered two times of warfare, one in late 16th Century, Japanese Invasion in 1592 and the other warfare in early 17th Century Hong Taiji’s Invasion from Qing Dynasty in 1636. During long time of national turmoil periods, many women has gone through the tough life due to unstabilized social system. Particularly the destruction of socio-economic structure in Joseon dynasty after wartime induced the lack of clothing materials, so as not to maintain the tradition of women’s wear. Eventually women took grant of wearing men’s Kal-Git type of Jeogori although Joseon Dynasty was very based on Confucian hierarchical system. In this aspect, incidence of excavating Kal-Git style of women’s Jeogori and shroud using men’s wear after wartime is well understood, reflecting the hard life during wartime.
Abstract
More than 200 cases of excavated costumes are currently reported to be worn during Joseon dynasty. Amongst those, Kal-Git Jeogori used for a women’s shroud has appeared during late 16th Century to 17th Century, just after long time national turmoil. It is generally understood that Kal-Git style has been used for men’s Jeogori, and Mok Pan-Git(square collar), Dang Ko Mok Pan-Git for women’s Jeogori. With this reason, excavated Kal-Git Jeogori for women’s shroud was under consideration as wearing men’s collar type by women’s gender. This study concentrates to prove the historical reason on the appearance of unusual style of women’s shroud. To understand this particular event, the status of excavated Kal-Git Jeogori style of women’s shroud has investigated, and pursued the reason of wearing Kal-Git style women’s Jeogori trying to match with historical and social background of excavated periods, 16∼17th Century. Joseon dynasty has encountered two times of warfare, one in late 16th Century, Japanese Invasion in 1592 and the other warfare in early 17th Century Hong Taiji’s Invasion from Qing Dynasty in 1636. During long time of national turmoil periods, many women has gone through the tough life due to unstabilized social system. Particularly the destruction of socio-economic structure in Joseon dynasty after wartime induced the lack of clothing materials, so as not to maintain the tradition of women’s wear. Eventually women took grant of wearing men’s Kal-Git type of Jeogori although Joseon Dynasty was very based on Confucian hierarchical system. In this aspect, incidence of excavating Kal-Git style of women’s Jeogori and shroud using men’s wear after wartime is well understood, reflecting the hard life during wartime.
참고문헌 (37)
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