柘枝舞 服飾 디자인 및 제작에 관한 연구 - 唐代를 중심으로 -

Abstract

The main purpose of the study is to enhance the restoration process of a traditional dancing costume based on historical research, as well as to motivate further research activities regarding traditional dancing costumes. In this study, the detailed process of restoring and making traditional dancing costume, called Zhèzhīwǔ(柘枝舞), is explained and discussed. Lack of materials and references has caused this kind of study difficult. In this research, the garments of Zhèzhīwǔ of Tang Dynasty and Shíguó(石國) were designed and made. Zhèzhīwǔ was originated from Shíguó, and was later introduced to Tang Dynasty. It was in a huge vogue during that period. Zhèzhīwǔ was then introduced to Goryeo Dynasty by Song Dynasty, and was handed down to Chosun dynasty. It was passed down as one of the royal court dances, called ‘Liánhuāduìwǔ’(蓮花臺舞). The design of the garments is based on the poetries, clay dolls and frescos that describe Zhèzhīwǔ. Since they are not sufficient to complete the costume design, I also referred general costumes during the same period. The costumes of the Shíguó was exotic; they consist of a beaded bonnet with a pointed crown, a coat with revere collars and fitted sleeves, pendant belt decorated with mother-of-pearl and silver, trousers, pointed boots. Those of Tang Dynasty were also exotic but heavily modified according to preferences; they are made up with an embroidered bonnet, which has a pointed crown decorated with plenty of pearls and beads, transparent long sleeved shirt, a long skirt, a half-sleeve brocade jacket, and a pendant belt decorated with mother-of-pearl and silver. They are also adjusted to be more suitable for dance performances.