장옷의 특성을 적용한 현대적 외투 디자인 개발에 관한 연구-조선시대부터 20세기까지의 장옷을 중심으로-

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to propose a contemporary coat design by applying the features that change the wearing style of clothes and clothes according to the age, circumstances, and purpose of the wear. The scope of the study is from the 15th century to the 20th century when the first armor was worn, and the method of research is literature review, empirical research, and design development. First, the origins and forms of the armor were analyzed with reference to literature. Next, through the empirical study, we analyzed the characteristic features of the armor relics and developed the design by applying the analysis results. The Jang-ot are originated from the Jangui(長衣) which is one of the Korean men ‘s Po in the 15th century. The Jang-ot were worn by the women and man, and then they are gradually wornde by women’ s clothes. Wearing of Jang-ot appears to be a variable characteristic of wearing method and form due to the phenomenon of the Bok-yo(服妖) which means extravagant phenomenon and the influence of men and women strictly kept their distance from each other in the Choson dynasty. The morphological characteristics of the jacket are square neck, straight sleeve, and armpit triangle. The result of the design using this is as follows. Design 1 is a poncho style coat with a motif of unisex Jang-ot, applying a straight silhouette and identification of white. The material was a beige cotton. Design 2 is a women’s coat with a motif of a women’s outer Jang-ot, applying a straight collar, sleeves and silhouette of the jacket. The material used was quilted denim and white cotton. Design 3 is a jacket with a motif of a Jang-ot for women. The silhouette of the curved line given by the straight collar, double pom, and the hood is applied. The material was yellow silk and white. Design 4 is a formal jacket with a motif of a special-purpose apparel, and the silhouette of the A-line and straight sleeves are applied. Black taffeta and gray polyester materials were used.