대한제국기 서구식 소례복 연구

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to examine the western-style Soryebok (men’s formal wear), which was introduced during the Daehan Empire. This study analyzed historical documents, artifacts, and photos, along with the Japanese Tongsangyebok(Soryebok). The swallow-tail coat and the frock coat were known as western-style Soryebok. In the western society, morning coats were worn more often than the frock coats after 1900. During the introduction of the Soryebok, the Daehan Empire and The Meiji government had to experience the difficulty in learning the dress etiquettes, while getting acquainted with the dress components as well. The Meiji government defined the swallow-tail coat as Tongsangyebok in 1872. Though frock coats were allowed to be worn as a swallow-tail substitute initially, it gradually settled as a Tongsangbok (men’s general wear). The many etiquette books were published, and it played an important role in teaching people about the various types and wearing manners of men’s wear. These books emphasized that wearing a frock coat as a substitute of swallow-tail coat should be avoided. The Daehan Empire accepted the swallow-tail coat as Soryebok in the 14th Imperial order in April 17th 1900. On January 16th, 1905, a revision was made in the official gazette, which divided the Soryebok into the swallow-tail coat and the frock coat. The Soryebok could be worn by civil servants, and was composed of a silk hat, coat, vest, slacks, and shoes. It had to be worn in accordance with proper wearing occasions. The Soryebok could be worn as a court dress substitute for those who couldn’t prepare court dresses. And the Soryebok was to be worn while attending a western-style ceremony and banquet. The wearing of swallow-tail coats or frock coats depended on the banquet. The artifacts in the museum collection are 1 frock coat and 8 morning coats, while there was no report of swallow-tail coats. It can be regarded that the division of the Soryebok rule during the Daehan Empire was due to the process of solving the problems of understanding wearing manners after the introduction of men’s formal wear