대한제국기 남자 조끼 형태 및 제작법에 관한 연구
A study on the vest shape and tailoring of the Korean Empire in the 1900s
0
조회
0
다운로드
0
인용
0
참고문헌
키워드
초록
The purpose of this study is to fundamentally examine the vests of the robes “Daeraebok” and “Soraebok” of the Korean Empire from the 1876 Port Opening to the 1910 annexation of Korea to Japan. Among the collections of different robes of the Korean Empire which belong to various universities and institutions, only the vests were surveyed. The shape of the vests in the Korean Empire were single-breasted and double- breasted. Most V-necklines and vests with a shawl collar look like a tailored collar, where the collar outline was shaped like a notched and picked collar, which is a mix of the step collar and roll collar of the 19th century. The rear center line was not flat, but inclined to a triangle. All vests of the robe Daeraebok were equipped with gold buttons, and those of the robe Soraebok had black satin buttons. The tailoring characteristic is that the front has a different material (dark black wool) from the back (black silk). This characteristic is expected to be an important basic piece of information in the restoration and reproduction of the vest, which was worn during the imperial period, especially to reveal its shape, characteristics and composition. This characteristic can also be used as data of cultural contents based on Korean modern history.
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to fundamentally examine the vests of the robes “Daeraebok” and “Soraebok” of the Korean Empire from the 1876 Port Opening to the 1910 annexation of Korea to Japan. Among the collections of different robes of the Korean Empire which belong to various universities and institutions, only the vests were surveyed. The shape of the vests in the Korean Empire were single-breasted and double- breasted. Most V-necklines and vests with a shawl collar look like a tailored collar, where the collar outline was shaped like a notched and picked collar, which is a mix of the step collar and roll collar of the 19th century. The rear center line was not flat, but inclined to a triangle. All vests of the robe Daeraebok were equipped with gold buttons, and those of the robe Soraebok had black satin buttons. The tailoring characteristic is that the front has a different material (dark black wool) from the back (black silk). This characteristic is expected to be an important basic piece of information in the restoration and reproduction of the vest, which was worn during the imperial period, especially to reveal its shape, characteristics and composition. This characteristic can also be used as data of cultural contents based on Korean modern history.
참고문헌 (35)
- Busan Modern History Museum, (2005), Busan Modern History Museum
- 최은주, "대한제국기 프록코트의 형태와 제작법에 관한 연구 -박기종 유물 조사를 중심으로-", 복식문화연구, 23(3), pp.439~453 (2015), 복식문화학회[DOI]
- 최규순, "大韓帝國期 宮內府 大禮服 硏究", 정신문화연구, 31(2), pp.3~39 (2008), 한국학중앙연구원
- 최규순, "1905~1906년 서구식 大禮服제도 개정에 나타난 일제의 한국병탄 준비", 한국독립운동사연구, (39), pp.5~45 (2011), 한국독립운동사연구소
- Choi, Y. M., "A study on the vest pattern of men in twenties related to roher index", Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 19(6), pp.1008~1016 (1995)
- "Culture Heritage Administration", CulturalHeritage Administration, ~ (2012)
- Davis, R. I., "Men’s garments, 1830-1900 : A guide to pattern cutting and tailoringStudio City" (1994), Players Press
- Fashion Text Dictionary Committee, (1999), KoreanDictionary Researcher
- Hwang, J. A., "A Study on the changes of Korean costumes during the enlightenment period", master, pp.2000
- Kim, J. S., (1990), Mirinae
- "Journal of the Korean Society of Costume", 1977, 67~84
- Kim, Y. H., "A study on the introduction of western costume and the process of reception in the civilized age of Korea", master, pp.1987
- Kim, Y. S., (1998), Art Culture
- Korean Empire Ministry Record Section, (1982), Asiamoonwhasa
- Kum, K. S., (2002), Gyomoonsa
- Kyungwoon Museum, (2012), Kyungwoon Museum
- Lee, K. M., "Comparison between the Korean and Japanese costume systems since port opening treaties in nineteenth century", master, pp.1999
- Lee, K. M., "Western-styled court costume paradigm of the Korean Empire", doctor, pp.2008
- 이경미, "대한제국 1900년(光武4) 문관대례복 제도와 무궁화 문양의 상징성", 복식, 60(3), pp.123~137 (2010), 한국복식학회
- 이경미, "대한제국기 서구식 문관 대례복 제도의 개정과 국가정체성 상실", 복식, 61(4), pp.103~116 (2011), 한국복식학회
- 이경미, "대한제국기 문관 대례복 제작에 관한 연구 - 상의 패턴을 중심으로 -", 복식, 63(6), pp.56~68 (2013), 한국복식학회[DOI]
- Lee, K. -M., "Comparison between the Korean and Japanese costume systems since port opening treaties in nineteenth century", Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 50(8), pp.149~163 (2000)
- Lee, S. H., "The transformation of costume during the period of modernization of Korea and the factors", master, pp.1984
- Lee, Y. J., (1996), Fromm To
- "Journalof Korean Society of Costume", 1995, 123~143
- "In Encylopedia of Korean culture"[URL]
- National Place Museum of Korea, (2010), GraphicNet
- "Park, S. S.", Dankook University Academy of Asian Studies, 295~310 (2003)
- Ryu, H. K., (1980), Ewha Womans University Press
- Ryu, H. K., (1989), Gyomoonsa
- "In Naver Korean dictionary"[URL]
- "In Encylopedia of Korean Culture"[URL]
- "In The digital local culture encylopedia of Korea"[URL]
