금관가야 여자의 신분별 복식 재현과 일러스트 제안

Abstract

This study was designed to suggest how to replicate costumes that women in Geumgwan Gaya wore by social status and provide women in costume illustration images. The process and results of the study are summarized as follows. The author classified the social status of Geumgwan Gaya’s women into four categories, such as the queen, woman of nobility, female servant, and ordinary woman. It is presumed that those women wore clothes such as Yu, Jangyu, Gun, and Go, like in the then other kingdoms of Goguryeo, Baekje, and Shilla. The study assumed that the standard body size of the queen and noblewomen were bigger than female servants and ordinary women. Regardless of social status, however, this study used women in the ancient kingdom were 150cm in height, 82cm in chest width, and 88cm in hip circumference. For replicating the costume images of Geumgwan Gaya’s women, this study applied Jangyu to the queen and female servants and Yu to noble and ordinary women. For the queen, the study represented purple Jangyu with gold-plated patterns of Samyeopmun, Hwamun, Neunghyeongmun, Nakseungmun, and Samgakmun or with the same pattern in gold embroidery. For the noblewomen, Yu was reproduced celadon green color with silver-gilt patterns of Hwamun, Samgakjip Seonmun, Banwon Jeommun, and Wonhyeongmun or with the same patterns in silver embroidery. For the female servant, green Jangyu was replicated with patterns such as Hwamun and Wonhyeongmun. A solid brown Yu was replicated for ordinary women. As part of costume replication in this study, skirts were illustrated differently depending on social status. The study provided the images of pleated skirts with multi-colored stripes for the queen, non-pleated skirts with multi-colored stripes for noblewomen, pleated skirts without multi-colored stripes for female servants, and non-pleated skirts without the stripes for ordinary women. Colors used in the replicative illustration of multi-colored skirts for the queen were celadon green, orange, yellow, and white. Skirts for noblewomen were multi-colored with the combination of yellow-green, blue, brown, and white. Meanwhile, skirts for female servants and the ordinary women were replicative illustrated in pink and indigo.