생활한복지의 가봉성과 맵시
The Sew-ability and Total Appearance Value of Woven Fabrics for Saenghwal-Hanbok
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The purpose of this paper is to analyze and discuss the influence of the mechanical properties and structural parameters of the cotton fabrics for Saeng-hawl Hanbok to the sew-ability and TAV(Total Appearance Value). The cotton fabrics for Saeng-hawl Hanbok were woven in several conditions , such as yarn count, cloth density and weave. The mechanical properties of the cotton fabrics for Saeng-hawl Hanbok had been evaluated by KES-F System. And the sewability and TAV(Total Appearance Value) of the woven fabrics for Saeng-hawl Hanbok had been calculated from mechanical properties of fabrics by using developed equation by Kawabata. And then, the sew-ability and TAV(Total Appearance Value) of the woven fabrics for Saeng-hawl Hanbok have been analyzed according to the fabric structural parameters, such as, yarn count, cloth density and weave structure. According to the obtained results, the TAV and sew-ability increased with the increase of weft yarn count and decreased with the increase of cloth density. And the TAV and sew-ability of satin fabrics were shown as the highest values.
Abstract
The purpose of this paper is to analyze and discuss the influence of the mechanical properties and structural parameters of the cotton fabrics for Saeng-hawl Hanbok to the sew-ability and TAV(Total Appearance Value). The cotton fabrics for Saeng-hawl Hanbok were woven in several conditions , such as yarn count, cloth density and weave. The mechanical properties of the cotton fabrics for Saeng-hawl Hanbok had been evaluated by KES-F System. And the sewability and TAV(Total Appearance Value) of the woven fabrics for Saeng-hawl Hanbok had been calculated from mechanical properties of fabrics by using developed equation by Kawabata. And then, the sew-ability and TAV(Total Appearance Value) of the woven fabrics for Saeng-hawl Hanbok have been analyzed according to the fabric structural parameters, such as, yarn count, cloth density and weave structure. According to the obtained results, the TAV and sew-ability increased with the increase of weft yarn count and decreased with the increase of cloth density. And the TAV and sew-ability of satin fabrics were shown as the highest values.
참고문헌 (10)
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- J. Lindberg, "Wool fabrics as garment construction materials", J. Text, Inst., 51, pp.1475~ (1960)
- S. Kawabata, "風合いと衣服", 일본섬유기계학회지, 33, pp.136~ (1980)
- S. Kawabata, "Prediction of the appearance of men's suit from fabric mechanical properties and fabric hand.Part 1:analysis of men's summer suit using fabric mechanical properties", 일본섬유기계학회지, 34(1), pp.12~23 (1981)
- M. Matsudaira, "Crimp recovery property of wool fibers processed by a modern high-speed worsted spinning system", 일본섬유기계학회지, 34(9), pp.177~182 (1981)
- Kato Tech, "Auto Data Processing Unit for KES-FB System", ~ (1988)
- L. W. S., "Fabric Objective Measurement" (1989), Fabric Objective Measurement
- CSIRO, "FAST System" (1988), FAST System
- 丹羽雅子, "新合纖の假縫性についで", 纖維消費科學誌(日), 35(1), pp.20~29 (1994)
- M. Niwa, "Recent developments in research correlating basic fabric mechanical properties and the appearance of men's suits", pp.67~82 (1983), Objective Evaluation of Apparel Fabrics
