북위(北魏)시대의 호복(胡服)연구
A Study on the Nomadic Costume of the Northern Wei Period
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A new clothing style developed in accordance with the influence of clothing of the Han period and with its absorption into or combination with Xianbei's style. A chinese garment, Nomadic Costume, was introduced from and northern nomadic tribes including Xiongnu. in the era of King Jo-Mu-Ryong, and used for a combat uniform after Wei Jin period. The original Nomadic Costume was folded to the left with tight sleeves and trousers, but the Han race transformed it into a new pattern, Go-Sup, which is folded to the right with loose sleeves and baggy trousers. The costumes of offer man in Stone Cave and figurines from the tombs appeared in the form of Chinese style after Xiao-wen-di(孝文帝)'s clothing reformation, but it turned into Ho-Bok with Chinese images but in Xianbei's style since the capital-transfer to Luoyang. Although Xiao-wen-di's Sinonization policy restricted Ho-Bok, the public were still wearing them, and Nomadic Costume rather had a great influence on Han clothes. It is commonly seen that they preferred practical, tight sleeves and trousers, wore boots and a shawl, used splendid colors and felts in Xianbei's style on Han costumes and had lining with the pattern of a lotus flower or the arabesque of honeysuckle on textiles and trimming. An intriguing fact is that a cross topknot of the Northern Wei period was discovered in An-Ak tomb no. 3 of Go-Gu-Ryo but that a coat string of a Buddhist statue in Yun-Gang Cave is similar to that of Han-Bok, Korean traditional costume. By constantly investigating the relationship between clothing styles, the cultural exchange between Go-Gu-Ryo and Northern Wei at that time could be understood as well.
Abstract
A new clothing style developed in accordance with the influence of clothing of the Han period and with its absorption into or combination with Xianbei's style. A chinese garment, Nomadic Costume, was introduced from and northern nomadic tribes including Xiongnu. in the era of King Jo-Mu-Ryong, and used for a combat uniform after Wei Jin period. The original Nomadic Costume was folded to the left with tight sleeves and trousers, but the Han race transformed it into a new pattern, Go-Sup, which is folded to the right with loose sleeves and baggy trousers. The costumes of offer man in Stone Cave and figurines from the tombs appeared in the form of Chinese style after Xiao-wen-di(孝文帝)'s clothing reformation, but it turned into Ho-Bok with Chinese images but in Xianbei's style since the capital-transfer to Luoyang. Although Xiao-wen-di's Sinonization policy restricted Ho-Bok, the public were still wearing them, and Nomadic Costume rather had a great influence on Han clothes. It is commonly seen that they preferred practical, tight sleeves and trousers, wore boots and a shawl, used splendid colors and felts in Xianbei's style on Han costumes and had lining with the pattern of a lotus flower or the arabesque of honeysuckle on textiles and trimming. An intriguing fact is that a cross topknot of the Northern Wei period was discovered in An-Ak tomb no. 3 of Go-Gu-Ryo but that a coat string of a Buddhist statue in Yun-Gang Cave is similar to that of Han-Bok, Korean traditional costume. By constantly investigating the relationship between clothing styles, the cultural exchange between Go-Gu-Ryo and Northern Wei at that time could be understood as well.
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