대한제국기 서구식 문관대례복 상의 수장(袖章)의 자수 연구

Abstract

This study is a basic research for making replica of the embroidery on the coat of court dress in the Daehan Empire, especially aiming for manufacture of the chevron. The details of this study is as follows. Step 1. Design of the pattern of the chevron of the court dress. Step 2. Analysis of characteristic, material and method of the embroidery. Step 3. Reproduction of the chevron using the most similar material to that of the artifact. The result of the study is as follows. One set of the chevron of the artifact was manufactured with the embroidery reproduced, which resulted to a whole set of the court dress. The gold work method originated from Europe was used in the embroidery. The gold threads of Rough purl, Smooth purl, Check purl, Pearl purl, Rococo, and Spangle were used as material of the embroidery. The embroidery was proceeded as follows. First, the pattern of the chevron was drawn. Second, the original pattern of the chevron was embroidered and the pattern of the rose of sharon was embroidered. Lastly, the embroidered pattern of the rose of sharon was attached to the chevron. The result of the study can be utilized as follows. First, the manufacture of the replica is possible, which can be displayed on a regular basis on behalf of the artifact of the court dress. Second, it can be used as ceremony costume and stage costume in the cinema, drama and musical of the era of the Daehan Empire. Third, it can be used as the design source which can provide creative inspiration to fashion designers. Fourth, it can be used as a new kind of educational material in school and industry. In conclusion, the result of the study can lead to meaningful performance in terms of study, education, society and industry.