경극의상 고(靠)에 관한 연구

Abstract

The objective of this study is to research the types and forms of Kao, the armor of military uniforms for soldiers in Beijing opera, accompanied by martial arts, and also to understand the characteristics of Kao as a costume of Beijing opera in comparison with traditional costumes of the Ming/Qing Dynasty, which is known as its origin. As part of this research, Kao as a costume of Beijing opera and the military uniforms of the Ming/Qing Dynasty were comparatively analyzed by researching the literature on Beijing opera costumes, and then identifying the characters and cases showing the remarkable roles of soldiers in Beijing opera works. Based on this study, the characteristics of Kao as a costume of Beijing opera can be analyzed as follows. First, there was a fixed pattern reflecting the traditional costume. Originating from the armor of the Ming/Qing Dynasty, Kao was expansively decorated by borrowing components from the armor. Also, in accordance with the degree of applying elements of the armors of the Ming/Qing Dynasty, it was systematically classified into hard Kao and improved Kao. The fixed pattern was maintained by placing traditional colors and patterns in accordance with the regular rules. Second, there was symbolism revealing situations and roles. Kao was designed to emphasize symbolism more than realism, and also to express the status, position, characteristics, age, and personality of characters. Therefore, the trends of the time and temporality were eliminated by uniformly using the forms and materials of Kao while the situations and roles were symbolically expressed through colors, patterns, and parts. Third, its functionality as a theatrical costume was shown. By simplifying the form, transforming the materials, and changing the heavy iron armor into armor made of silk and cotton, light and fancy decoration could be shown. On top of borrowing the form of armor from the Ming/Qing Dynasty, its form was partially simplified and the plackets or separation of top from bottom was incorporated to enable agility of movements, which was the characteristic of improved Kao.