중국 경극 여성배역의 의상 특징을 활용한 패션디자인 연구

Abstract

This study examined the Peking opera and its costumes. Based on this research, five sets of modern suit-dresses inspired by the female costumes of the Peking opera were designed. Six main types of costumes are found in the Peking opera, Mang (formal dress), Pi (informal dress), Kao (military uniform), Zhe (robe), Yi (general clothing), and Kuitou (various crests and hats). The costumes are distinguished by their colors, patterns, and design details. Chinese traditional philosophy has had a great influence on the Peking opera, so that the colors of the five metallic elements namely, black, white, yellow, red, and green are used in the costumes. Furthermore, the patterns of the Peking opera costumes are mainly based on traditional Chinese imagery, which is divided into animals, plants, characters such as the Chinese characters, and auspicious patterns. The design details of peking opera costumes include Shuixiu（long sleeves), Kaoqi (armor flags), Yudai (sashes), tassels as well as pompons and Diancui (feather decorations) on Kui Tou (hats). The Peking opera features five main types of female figures the modest Zhengdan, the intrepid female warrior Wudan, the elegant elderly female Laodan, the coquettish Huadan and the noble Huasha. Their personalities are reflected in the colors, silhouettes, patterns, and details of theirs costumes. This research on the female figures and costumes of the Peking opera, which is a uniquely Chinese mode of expression, was used to adapt the costumes in a modern way, thereby contributing to the revival of traditional costumes. In addition, this study found that inspiration from traditional arts may bring benefits to modern clothing design.