조선시대 흑마포(黑麻布) 의미와 변화

Abstract

Heungmapo[黑麻布] appeared in the Goryeo Dynasty and was maintained until the end ofthe Joseon Dynasty. It is classified as a type of hemp, but no in-depth research has been done. However, several previous interpretations and other examples have been identified in theJoseon Dynasty literature records. Heungmapo was recognized and used as an important internal and external enemyduring the Joseon Dynasty. It has been a major item in diplomatic relations with China, inparticular. Because of this, production was managed by the state-run system. And it has beensupplemented in the private sector. With the war and the power transition period of Ming andQing, the status of the Heungmapo changes. Since then, it has been mostly used in diplomaticrelations with Japan and maintained until the end of the Joseon Dynasty. The real meaning of Heungmapo is Sajeogyojik (絲苧交織), a combination of silk and ramie. Itwas originally dyed with red clay[朱土 : Iron oxide red], but it was changed to gardenia seeds[梔子] dye after the mid-Joseon period. The actual color and material of Heungmapo was a fabricthat was completely different from its name. The contradiction in the name of the Heungmapowas identified through various literature records and artifacts. Currently, Sajeogyojik is named Chunpo (春布) and is maintained in Cheongyang , SouthChungcheong Province. During the Joseon Dynasty, Chunpo was a combination of cotton andramie, which was different from what it is today. This made it difficult to explain the relationshipbetween Sajeogyojik and Chunpo. Heungmapo's rediscovery enabled us to interpret thisphenomenon. The current discontinuation of Heungmapo and the change of Chunpo were dueto the effects of the late Joseon period's opening. The opening of the port brought in new fabrics and had a great impact on the traditionalcotton textile industry. The influx of mechanized cotton fabrics knocked out the original meaning of Chunpo, which used cotton materials. On the other hand, ramie, which is difficultto mechanize, was not affected and Sajeogyojik continued. Due to the inconsistency of thename in Heungmapo, the frequency of using the name has decreased. Afterwards, the nameof Heungmapo disappeared and only the meaning of Sajeogyojik remained. Under thesecircumstances, Heungmapo is redefined as the current Chunpo. The current Chunpo is animportant example of the traces of Heungmapo during the Joseon Dynasty. In terms of historical facts, the current name of Sajeogyojik should be restored toHeungmapo. However, because the historical meaning of Chunpo is also important at present,much discussion is needed. And research for the circular restoration of Heungmapo duringthe Joseon Dynasty should continue. Through this paper, I tried to rediscover the meaning ofHeungmapo and present a new direction of Sajeogyojik research that had been fragmented.