초임계 추출 느릅나무 성분을 함유한 고 보습 화장품 제형에 대한 평가 연구
A study on the Formulation of high-moisturizing Cosmetics containing Ulmus davidiana supercritical fluid extract
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초록
항균, 항산화, 항염증 효능의 기능성 원료로써 효능이 확인된 느릅나무 추출물을 포함하는 화장품 개발을 위한 연구와 이 화장품의 아토피피부염과 같은 건조하고 민감한 피부 개선 효능에 대한 연구를 수행하였다. 원료 물질인 느릅나무 초임계 추출박 60%주정 추출물(USCFR)과 초임계 추출물(USCF), 이를 포함하는 예비제형 DKBP-1903 (겔)에 대한 독성시험을 수행한 결과 ‘무독성’으로 판정되었다. 이를 토대로 조제한 각 제형별 화장품 로션, 크림, 겔에 대한 안정성 시험 결과, 크림과 겔이 더 우수한 안정성을 보였고 안정성이 확보된 두 가지 제형에 대해 아토피 피부염 개선 효능 입증을 위한 화장품 효능시험으로 48시간 보습지속력 시험과 건조함에 의한 소양감개선 시험을 진행한 결과, 크림과 겔 도포 24시간 후 82.9%, 92.32%의 피부각질층 수분함량 개선율을 보였고 2주 후부터 소양감 개선 효과를 나타냈다. 이러한 결과를 통해 크림과 겔 모두 비교적 안전한 보습제로써 건조하고 민감한 피부에 도움을 줄 수 있는 것으로 판단된다.
Abstract
This study was performed to develop the cosmetics containing extract of U.davidiana, which has been confirmed as a functional ingredient of anti-microbial, anti-oxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects, and also to evaluate the improvement effects of dry and sensitive skin such as atopic dermatitis. Toxicity tests of the Ulmus davidiana supercritical fluid residue 60% EtOH extracts(USCFR), Ulmus davidiana supercritical fluid extracts(USCF) and preliminary formulations, DKBP-1903(gel), containing the USCFR and USCF were determined to be ‘Non-toxic’. Based on this, the stability test of the lotion, cream, gel formulation was conducted and the results showed that cream and gel formulation were stable. A 48-hour moisturizing sustainability test and the improvement test on the pruritus caused by dryness were selected for the cosmetic efficacy test to evaluate the improvement of atopic dermatitis and as a result both cream and gel have been found to be relatively safe moisturizers that can help dry and sensitive skin.
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