선찰사 목조석가여래좌상 복장 직물과 왕비 유씨 저고리 고찰

Abstract

As a result of the study on BokJang BalWon Memo(腹藏發願文) and Queen Yu’s (Gwanghaegun’ wife, 1576-1623) from the Wooden Statue of Buddha in Sunchal-sa Temple, Andong city, Gyeong Sang Buk-province, Korea, the BalWon Memo shows that the statue was installed on May 26, 1622 and the owner of the Jeogori is Queen Yu revealed from the 9 letter memo, ‘Byung-Ja-Sang Wang-bi Yu-ssi Myung-yui(丙子生王妃柳氏命衣)’, found inside the inner sup of the Jeogori. The study also reveals that the cloths can be classified largely into 4 groups : light blue Ju(紬) for Balwon Memo, blue twill damask with no-pattern(無紋綾) for bodice of jeogori, purple To-Ju((吐紬) for sleeve’s end, gussets, collar, sup, fastening strings, greenish blue Ju(紬), and blue satin damask with phenix and floral pattern on the end of sleeve. Note that the purple To-Ju(吐紬) can be considered as a valuable historical material because it is very rare to identify the colors of To-Ju found so far. The Queen Yu’s jeogori is inferred as a newly made clothes or one of her clothes for the statue enshrinement. We propose the name of jeogori as Dan-jeogori(短赤古里) for its length or HoeJang-Jeogori(回粧赤古里) for its special combination of colors. The jeogori has the following specifications on various lengths: 49cm in back length, 50cm in front length, 72 cm in Hwa-jang, and 51cm in back width. The way how the jeogori was constructed follows the typical jeogori construction method of Joseon Dynasty period. This study also reports on 4 outer garments for women related with the jeogori of Temple of Sunchal-sa. While the Queen Yu’s jeogori uses higher quality textiles with various colors when compared with others, the jeogori of the Queen and court ladies uses the same purple color and has the same shape. Even though these are from the same period, the two Jang-jeogori are with Dangko-mokpan collar while the Dan-jeogori of the Queen and court ladies are with mokpan collar. We may make a conjecture that the outer wear, Jang-jeogori, accepts the new trend in collar while the inner ware, Dan-jeogori, does not at that time.