수국사 불복장 섬유류에 관한 고찰

Abstract

The Suguk temple is an old temple located in Seoul. The Amitabha statue of the Suguk temple has been recorded in 1239 to have been made around the late 13th century, and has been gold-plated again in the years 1389 and 1562. Among the artifacts found in the Amitabha statue, we know for certain that the dharani where placed there when the Amitabha statue was completed, and the rest of the remains are estimated to have been placed in the statue when during the second gold-plating in 1562. However, the costumes were found to have been mixed disregarding the age when they were excavated. Among the artifacts found in Amitabha statue, the fabric artifacts are the Jeogori, 20 sheets of Bojagi(wrapping cloths), 11 fabrics, 2 raw ramie, 1 silk skein, 2 skeins of hemp thread, etc. The weaving technique of ramie and cotton did not change much throughout the Goryo Dynasty and the Joseon Dynasty, which makes it hard to determine whether their ages of the production are during these eras. However, the ages of textiles with motif can be somewhat estimated by comparing the weaving technique and motif. In this study, we examined the kinds of fabric artifacts and their distinctive quality, and compared their weaving technique, motif, etc. with other artifacts to estimate the age. The Jeogori found in Suguk temple is a Jeoksam made of ramie, and it has '全氏保体' written in ink. The overall look of the Jeogori showing a square-shaped collar, square-shaped sleeves and the triangle-shaped Moo exhibits the style during the early Joseon Dynasty. Most of the fabrics seem to be of the same age seeing that same fabric are cut inlittle pieces and used in Bojagi. The Bojagi with yellow flower motif twill shows similar textile construction and patterns of Bojagi in Naesosa(1415), and the black complex gauze is similar to the veil of the Papyeong Yoon(~1566). The red silk with supplementary silver weft threads is the same as the collar textile of the Pyeongsan Shin's of the late 16th century. Considering the patterns and textile characteristics, satins are estimated to have been placed in 1562. The red complex gauze with supplementary gold weft threads is the first of its' kind to have been found in Korea. Considering the climate of Korea and environment which is hard on the durability of fabrics, the fabrics found in the Amitabha statue of the Suguk temple are valuable to the study on the history of Korean costume. Also, the color of the textile is preserved and condition in which these textiles were found are excellent, which can help identify the preferred color, the dying and weaving techniques and so during that age. This shows profound academic value, with its' high historic and folk value.