현미식초로 만든 천연초란각액 처리가 견직물의 염색성과 견뢰도 변화에 미치는 영향 - Madder 염료를 중심으로 -

Abstract

This study was carried out to develop an eco-friendly textiles by investigating how the natural chorangak liquid treatment affected the changes of dyeability and colorfastness of silk fabrics. The natural chorangak liquid was made of ‘Brown rice Vinegar’. After degumming, the silk fabrics were treated with 25% conc. of the natural chorangak liquid at 85℃, 90℃, 95℃ for 90mins. The silk fabrics were dyed with Madder. Under the conditions of both pre-mordant and post-mordant methods, the natural mordanting composed of rice straw was treated with time intervals(2mins, 4mins, 6mins) at 60℃. The liquid ratio was 1:200 in this condition. The results were as follows: 1) The natural chorangak liquid made of ‘Brown rice Vinegar’ was the most effective at the ratio of ‘Brown rice Vinegar’ 200ml with 20g of eggshell to minimize the time limit and sludge reduction. Considering the tenacity and elongation of silk fabrics, the treatment was optimized at 90℃ for 90mins with 25% conc. after degumming. 2) Compared to tenacity and elongation of degummed silk fabrics, those of specimen were increased after the treatment. 3) The K/S values of silk fabrics treated with the brown rice vinegar chorangak liquid showed higher number than those of untreated silk fabrics in all finishing time. Both K/S values of untreated and treated silk fabrics increased with the passing of time. The optimal dyeing with Madder can be achieved by pre-mordanting at 60℃ for 6 mins. 4) The pre-mordant silk fabrics treated with the brown rice vinegar chorangak liquid showed higher color change than those of post-mordant silk fabrics treated with the chorangak liquid. For both pre-mordant and post mordant silk fabrics, the intensity of the color change increased as time passed. 5) Just like untreated silk fabrics, the colorfastness to friction, perspiration, and dry cleaning of chorangak liquid treated pre-mordant silk fabrics dyed with Madder showed a high range from 4 to 5. 6) The natural chorangak liquid made of ‘Brown rice Vinegar’ can be used as a new chemical agent for silk fabrics.