본문 바로가기
KERD
논문KCI 등재

크리티컬 패션의 문자 전유 - 2000년대 이후의 패션디자인 사례를 중심으로 -

Appropriation of Letter in Critical Fashion - Focusing on fashion design examples after the year 2000-

정정희
한국의류산업학회 (The Society of Fashion and Textile Industry)|2022.10|한국의류산업학회지 (The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal)|제24권 제5호|pp. 530-544

1

조회

0

다운로드

1

인용

0

참고문헌

키워드

letter전유appropriationgraffiti문자그래피티타이포그라피크리티컬 패션critical fashiontypography
주제분류생활과학

초록

Based on a follow-up study on critical fashion’s strategies for object appropriation, this study aims to understand the appropriation of art as a social or cultural phenomenon influencing modern fashion, as well as to ana- lyze and comprehend how to specifically approach the appropriation of critical fashion’s letters through the appro- priated interpretation. To explain the theoretical background of critical fashion’s appropriated interpretation, it examined the related literature and data. Moreover, a fashion book-based literature review and a case study were conducted using sources, such as exhibition books, exhibited works, news, fashion magazines, and fashion sites, to examine letter appropriation strategies. In the critical fashion, the appropriation of subversive letters subverts mean- ings by providing experiences different from those based on real images of letters, which are displaceable. The appro- priation of such subversive letters to challenge the value of modernism aims to subvert social value by bringing and relocating existing objects while focusing on their external forms. The appropriation of referential letters focuses on delineating the distance between the subjects who quote something and the quoted something and reprograms the existing letter objects with an introspective and reflective attitude. In other words, critical fashion designers can effectively express their messages through the appropriation of letters, such as graffiti and typography, which are manifestations of challenge or resistance. Appropriating letters as a creative action pursues unmarginalized humans who possess their existence.

Abstract

Based on a follow-up study on critical fashion’s strategies for object appropriation, this study aims to understand the appropriation of art as a social or cultural phenomenon influencing modern fashion, as well as to ana- lyze and comprehend how to specifically approach the appropriation of critical fashion’s letters through the appro- priated interpretation. To explain the theoretical background of critical fashion’s appropriated interpretation, it examined the related literature and data. Moreover, a fashion book-based literature review and a case study were conducted using sources, such as exhibition books, exhibited works, news, fashion magazines, and fashion sites, to examine letter appropriation strategies. In the critical fashion, the appropriation of subversive letters subverts mean- ings by providing experiences different from those based on real images of letters, which are displaceable. The appro- priation of such subversive letters to challenge the value of modernism aims to subvert social value by bringing and relocating existing objects while focusing on their external forms. The appropriation of referential letters focuses on delineating the distance between the subjects who quote something and the quoted something and reprograms the existing letter objects with an introspective and reflective attitude. In other words, critical fashion designers can effectively express their messages through the appropriation of letters, such as graffiti and typography, which are manifestations of challenge or resistance. Appropriating letters as a creative action pursues unmarginalized humans who possess their existence.

참고문헌 (73)

  1. Ahn, S. H., "A study on bootleg fashion", 석사, pp.2020
  2. Ahn, Y. H., "Contemporary art dictionary" (1999), Minumsa
  3. Anthony, B., "Artistic theory in Italy 1450-1600" (1956), Oxford University Press
  4. Ashcroft, B., "(The)empire writes back-Theory and practice in post-colonial literatures" (2022), Minumsa
  5. Bond, D., "Twentieth century fashion" (1992), Guinness
  6. Buxbaum, G., "Icons of fashion-The 20th century" (2005), Prestel Publishing
  7. Castleman, C., "Getting up-Subway graffiti in New York" (1982), The MIT Press
  8. Chae, K. S., "Modern dress aesthetics" (2002), Gyeongchunsa
  9. Choi, M. Y., "The characteristic and method of expression of graffiti described in fashion collection", 석사, pp.2008
  10. Cho, D. S., (1999), PNU Press
  11. Editor of Phaidon Press, "The fashion book" (1998), Phaidon
  12. Fisher III., "Reflections on the hope poster case", Harvard Journal of Law & Technology, 25(2), pp.243~338 (2012)
  13. Hang, J. E., "(A)study on characteristics of deconstruction in the contemporary graphic design-focusing on the graphic design in England after the 1960s", 석사, pp.2010
  14. (2011)[URL]
  15. 허정선, "현대 패션에 표현된 타이포그래피의 상징성 연구", 한국패션디자인학회지, 13(4), pp.173~187 (2013), 한국패션디자인학회
  16. Humaira, H., "Decade of beauty" (1998), Octopus Publishing Group
  17. "So, What About Yves?" (2015)[URL]
  18. 장정임, "바스키아(Basquiat) 회화를 응용한 힙합웨어 디자인", 복식문화연구, 14(1), pp.153~167 (2006), 복식문화학회
  19. Jeon, I. B., (2005), Donglim
  20. "Moschino Fall 2014 Ready-to-Wear" (2014)[URL]
  21. "Moschino Spring 2014 Ready-to-Wear" (2014)[URL]
  22. 정정희, "크리티컬 패션의 오브제 전유 전략", 한국의상디자인학회지, 23(1), pp.1~18 (2021), 한국의상디자인학회[DOI]
  23. 정정희, "크리티컬 패션에 관한 고찰", 한국의류산업학회지, 21(5), pp.540~551 (2019), 한국의류산업학회[DOI]
  24. 정정희, "크리티컬 패션에 표현된 패션산업 시스템과 패션소비문화에 대한 비평적 메시지", 한국의류산업학회지, 21(6), pp.717~729 (2019), 한국의류산업학회[DOI]
  25. Jung, H. J., "A study on the design of men’s wear by applying the formativeness of graffiti", 석사, pp.2007
  26. "KATHARINE HAMNETT: Fashion Conscience"[URL]
  27. Kang, H. M., "A study on the satire represented in the graffiti art by Keith Haring", 석사, pp.2011
  28. Kim, E. M., "The study on the asyllable in art to wear", 석사, pp.2001
  29. Kim. K. A., "A study on the painting image of Jean Michel Basquiat-focused on compulsive expression due to toxic symptoms", 석사, pp.2015
  30. Kim, J. L., "The study on character pattern in modern fashion", 21st Century Design Forum, 11, pp.49~60 (2008)
  31. Kim, J. Y., "A study on the graffiti techniques in the contemporary dress", The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 5(3), pp.77~95 (1997)
  32. 김재원, "그라피티의 대중 문화적 위상과 역할에 대한 연구", 한국디자인포럼, (13), pp.103~116 (2006), 한국디자인트렌드학회
  33. 김선영, "현대패션에 나타난 그라피티에 관한 연구", 한국의류학회지, 31(5), pp.777~787 (2007), 한국의류학회
  34. 김선영, "타이포그래피를 이용한 현대패션의 유형과 미적 특성", 복식문화연구, 17(2), pp.283~295 (2009), 복식문화학회[DOI]
  35. Kim, T. H., "A study on the playful expression appeared in textile design", 석사, pp.2002
  36. Kim, Y. H., "A study on the expression of imagery through Graffiti-centered on the writer's works", 석사, pp.1998
  37. Korean Society of Typography, "A dictionary of typography" (2012), Ahn Graphics
  38. Kwon, J. M., "Letter design applied modern fashions", The Journal of Design Center, 7, pp.67~83 (2002)
  39. Kwon, J. Y., "(A) study on the conceptual fashion", 박사, pp.2008
  40. 이은정, "티셔츠에 표현된 그래피티의 특성에 관한 연구 -대중과의 커뮤니케이션을 중심으로-", 한국디자인문화학회지, 15(2), pp.400~411 (2009), 한국디자인문화학회
  41. 이효진, "서양복식에 나타난 Graffiti의 기호에 관한 연구", 복식문화연구, 10(3), pp.213~235 (2002), 복식문화학회
  42. Lee, H. N., "A study on letter patterns expressed in contemporary fashion", 박사, pp.2009
  43. Leventon, M., "Art wear-fashion and anti-fashion" (2005), Thames & Hudson
  44. Lipman, J., "Art about art" (1978), Dutton
  45. "Maison Martin Margiela, ‘Caution wet’, ‘Wet paint’, ‘FRAGILE’ skirt"[URL]
  46. "Maison Martin Margiela, Charity AIDS T-shirt"[URL]
  47. MacDermott, C., "Vivienne Westwood" (1999), Carlton Books Ltd
  48. Mendes, V., "20th century fashion" (1999), Thames & Hudson
  49. Min, C. H., "The dictionary of contemporary design" (1996), Ahngraphics
  50. Milbank, R. C., "New York fashion-The evolution of American style" (1989), Harry N. Abrans Inc. Publishers
  51. "Moschino, ‘No to racism !’, T-shirt" (2007)[URL]
  52. 박수진, "개념미술 관점의 패션 타이포그래피", 한국융합학회논문지, 11(1), pp.109~117 (2020), 한국융합학회[DOI]
  53. Park, S. L., "A study on the characteristics of generation Z in the creator activities of Virgil Abloh", 석사, pp.2019
  54. Park, W. H., "A study on the viewpoint of indeterminacy as a motive and metamorphosis as the attitude to enable new arrangements in typography", 석사, pp.2007
  55. Park, J. H., "Typo & calligraphy" (2007), Wellbok
  56. Roh, M. S., "The expression style of graffiti illustration", Illusology, 1, pp.141~154 (1997)
  57. Ross, S., "Art and allusion", The Journal of Aesthetics and Art Criticism, 40(1), pp.59~70 (1981)
  58. Seo, H. H., "(A)study on the pictorial image shown in the graffiti of Keith Haring", 석사, pp.1997
  59. 서현수, "현대패션에 나타난 타이포그래피에 관한 연구", 복식, 54(2), pp.135~148 (2004), 한국복식학회
  60. Steele, V., "Fifty years of fashion-New look to now" (1997), Yale University Press
  61. Steele, V., "Women of fashion-Twentieth-century designers" (1991), Rizzoli International
  62. "전 세계를 누비는 디자이너 버질 아블로의 여행" (2015)[URL]
  63. Turner, J., "The dictionary of art 13" (1996), Grove
  64. "JAMIE REID" (2014)[URL]
  65. "‘No’ painting, ‘WOW’ Coat, ‘DREAM’ Jacket, ‘DREAM ON’ T-shirt"[URL]
  66. "‘War is not over!’ T-shirt" (2015)[URL]
  67. "Reid's Punk Graphic T-shirt" (1977)[URL]
  68. "Reid's Punk Graphic T-shirt" (1977)[URL]
  69. Walker, J. A., "Art in the age of mass media" (1994), Visual and language
  70. Watson, Linda., "Twentieth century fashion-100 years of style by decade and designer" (2004), Firefly Books
  71. Whitworth, M. H., "Reading modernist poetry" (2010), A John Wiley & Sons
  72. Wilcox, C., "Vivienne Westwood" (2004), V&A Publications
  73. "Plastic form", 1976, 51~69

관련 논문AI추천

크리티컬 패션의 오브제 전유 전략임은혁, 정정희한국의상디자인학회 · 한국의상디자인학회지2021 · 제23권 제1호크리티컬 패션에 관한 고찰임은혁, 정정희한국의류산업학회 · 한국의류산업학회지2019 · 제21권 제5호개념미술 관점의 패션 타이포그래피박수진한국융합학회 · 한국융합학회논문지2020 · 제11권 제1호패션에서의 패러디 변화양상에 관한 연구정정희한국의류산업학회 · 한국의류산업학회지2024 · 제26권 제2호크리티컬 패션의 비평적 메시지 유형임은혁, 정정희한국의상디자인학회 · 한국의상디자인학회지2020 · 제22권 제2호크리티컬 패션에 표현된 패션산업 시스템과 패션소비문화에 대한 비평적 메시지임은혁, 정정희한국의류산업학회 · 한국의류산업학회지2019 · 제21권 제6호

이 간행물의 다른 논문 (14건)

언더그라운드 래퍼 패션의 특성 - 한국과 중국의 비교를 중심으로 -범가유, 하지수pp. 493-504롤(roll) 형태의 출력방식을 활용하는 3D 프린팅 가방 개발전재훈, 이지원pp. 505-518틱톡에 나타난 한푸 스트리트 스냅의 특성장로월, 임은혁pp. 519-529팬데믹 시기의 패션 테크놀로지에 관한 시각 - 텍스트 마이닝과 내용 분석을 중심으로 -김미경, 임은혁pp. 545-556진주실크 산업의 현황이은진, 장수현pp. 557-566
원문 보기