19세기 하반기 프랑스 남성복 유물의 3D 고증에 의한 패턴 제작에 관한 연구- 르뎅고뜨(Redingote)와 자께뜨(Jaquette)를 중심으로 -

Abstract

This research examines pattern production of 3 men’s costumes in the second half of 19th century by 3D reconstruction to reveal technical aspects of mail costumes. The steps are as follows. First, an examination of selective type according to research study. Second, a pattern analysis of 3 historical male tops of 19th century referred to 9 pattern books of the France National Library collection. Third, a categorized type analysis that referred to paintings of the Musée d'Orsay collection. Fourth, a measurement and structure research of 3 historical garments of Fashion and Textile Museum collection. Fifth, the pattern making and fitting by 3D simulation. Research discussed the following subjects and results. First, main type of men’s coat can be categorized by frac, redingote, jaquette, and veston. Second, the male costume pattern contained in pattern books was researched along with distinguished silhouettes and structures; X silhouette for frac and redingote, H silhouette for jaquette, and straight box silhouette for veston. Third, based on the analysis of representative type of men’s costume per period conducted previous studies, 2 redingotes and a jaquette in the museum were selected and compared to other data such as image materials. Last, the following process was conducted for reconstruction; ‘Drawing diagram–Primary pattern drafting by measurement value–3D virtual fitting–Checking the fit–Modification and complement’. We also obtained a 3D virtual reconstruction and a 2D research pattern that suggested a costume pattern by each type along with 3D reconstruction that included insights for male coat techniques of 19th century France.