19세기 후반 영국 여성복 상의 착용에 따른 인체 실루엣 변화
A Study on Body Silhouette Change by Wearing English Women’s Upper Garments of the Late 19^(th) Century
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The purpose of this study is to verify the change of body posture by putting on the late 19^(th)century English women’s bodice or waistcoat. This study analyzed the female somatotype which puts on upper garments of Victorian era with using 3D body scan technology. Two sets of 19^(th)century women's bodice and waistcoat patterns were developed with the 19^(th)century model size and those patterns were used for making the experimental garments. The fit of experimental garments was evaluated by the degree of change with posture and waist measurements. Three women with the same waist girth measurements with the model size were participated to the fitting test. The postural change was measured from cross-sectional body diagrams. The result of this study showed that the waist measurement of the late 19^(th)century English women's bodice and waistcoat pattern was smaller than the waist girth measurement. These garments compressed the midriff of the body and it made women's distinct body silhouette. The waist girth measurement of 1876 bodice pattern was 9.2cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 5.0～6.1cm after wearing the 1876 bodice garment. The waist girth measurement of 1880 waistcoat pattern was 7.1cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 2.7～3.7cm after wearing the 1880 waistcoat garment. The back side parts of their waist were compressed and their postures were changed. The neck and shoulders were moved forward after wearing the experimental garments. These results showed that body posture could be changed to“S”shape silhouette as wearing the late 19^(th)century English women’s bodice or waistcoat.
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to verify the change of body posture by putting on the late 19^(th)century English women’s bodice or waistcoat. This study analyzed the female somatotype which puts on upper garments of Victorian era with using 3D body scan technology. Two sets of 19^(th)century women's bodice and waistcoat patterns were developed with the 19^(th)century model size and those patterns were used for making the experimental garments. The fit of experimental garments was evaluated by the degree of change with posture and waist measurements. Three women with the same waist girth measurements with the model size were participated to the fitting test. The postural change was measured from cross-sectional body diagrams. The result of this study showed that the waist measurement of the late 19^(th)century English women's bodice and waistcoat pattern was smaller than the waist girth measurement. These garments compressed the midriff of the body and it made women's distinct body silhouette. The waist girth measurement of 1876 bodice pattern was 9.2cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 5.0～6.1cm after wearing the 1876 bodice garment. The waist girth measurement of 1880 waistcoat pattern was 7.1cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 2.7～3.7cm after wearing the 1880 waistcoat garment. The back side parts of their waist were compressed and their postures were changed. The neck and shoulders were moved forward after wearing the experimental garments. These results showed that body posture could be changed to“S”shape silhouette as wearing the late 19^(th)century English women’s bodice or waistcoat.
참고문헌 (26)
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