엠파이어 시대의 드레스 재현을 위한 형태분석 및 패턴연구

Abstract

This study aims at analyzing the silhouette, dress patterns and detail of Empire Era(1789-1825), and makinguse of this results for the modern stage costume construction. The dresses of Empire era were divided into X and H style.The results revealed that the bust girth of X style group was bigger than that of H style group. Such patterns as highwaistline, puff sleeve, train, etc. which appeared during the peak time of Empire style period were more remarkable forH style group. This obviously indicated that more epical characteristics were observed for H style group than for X stylegroup. Similarly to silhouete analysis, based on the results from cluster analysis conducted to put similar groups together,two groups were formed - a visually differentiated and complex group and a simple group in the absence of detail. Mostdress details from Empire period had simple embellishments. Comparison of the average size of the patterns betwenthan back width for both groups. Such trend was quite different from today's pattern in which back width is larger thanfront width based on body measurements. Preference for big breast during the period was reflected on dress patterns andthe side length of front side goes across the back much further for bodice patterns. Two representatives were selectedand reproduced using materials similar to those of real dresses of Empire style, following two times fit test.