해외에서 활동하는 한국 패션디자이너의 작품에 나타난 숭고미- 그레마스 기호사각형을 통한 기저의미 해석 -
Sublimity embedded in the works of internationally recognized Korean fashion designers- Interpretation of in-depth meaning applying Greimas semiotic square -
0
조회
0
다운로드
0
인용
0
참고문헌
키워드
초록
Clothing, as a signsystem, implies many different meanings according to different circumstances. Korean fashion designers’ designs also imply various meanings. Therefore, the purpose of this study is the exploration of Korean fashion designers’ design characteristics through Greimas’ Semiotic Square. As sublimity is the most representative characteristic of modern fashion design, this study discusses the in-depth aesthetic meaning innated in Korean fashion design through the semiotic square proposed by Greimas. To fulfill this goal, Korean fashion designers were sought after on the internet; consequently, four Korean designers became subjects for the analysis. Their collections were analyzed according to predefined criteria adopted and modified from previous studies. Sublimity characteristics were applied to Greimas’ and Floch’s semiotic squares for further interpretation. Results of the study indicate that sublimity, which is typically found in Korean fashion designs, varies depending on different points of view. In terms of culture, this study discovered a relationship of contrariety between sublimity and beauty. This finding opposes the theory of Greimas’ semiotic square, in which sublimity stands as a contradictory of the technician. According to the culture industry theory, suggested by Held, the technician is an implication of sublimity. Through a technician, sublimity may pose as a complementarity or implication of beauty. Finally, sublimity might substitute beauty as well; furthermore, it constitutes practical valorization in the semiotic square of Floch. Moreover, the artist present as a ludic valorization stands as a contradictory, while art, serving as a utopian valorization, enacts as a contrary.
Abstract
Clothing, as a signsystem, implies many different meanings according to different circumstances. Korean fashion designers’ designs also imply various meanings. Therefore, the purpose of this study is the exploration of Korean fashion designers’ design characteristics through Greimas’ Semiotic Square. As sublimity is the most representative characteristic of modern fashion design, this study discusses the in-depth aesthetic meaning innated in Korean fashion design through the semiotic square proposed by Greimas. To fulfill this goal, Korean fashion designers were sought after on the internet; consequently, four Korean designers became subjects for the analysis. Their collections were analyzed according to predefined criteria adopted and modified from previous studies. Sublimity characteristics were applied to Greimas’ and Floch’s semiotic squares for further interpretation. Results of the study indicate that sublimity, which is typically found in Korean fashion designs, varies depending on different points of view. In terms of culture, this study discovered a relationship of contrariety between sublimity and beauty. This finding opposes the theory of Greimas’ semiotic square, in which sublimity stands as a contradictory of the technician. According to the culture industry theory, suggested by Held, the technician is an implication of sublimity. Through a technician, sublimity may pose as a complementarity or implication of beauty. Finally, sublimity might substitute beauty as well; furthermore, it constitutes practical valorization in the semiotic square of Floch. Moreover, the artist present as a ludic valorization stands as a contradictory, while art, serving as a utopian valorization, enacts as a contrary.
참고문헌 (31)
- 안세희, "부틀렉 패션의 특성에 대한 연구", 복식문화연구, 28(1), pp.30~44 (2020), 복식문화학회[DOI]
- "Meet KYE, the street wear brand seen on Rihannna, Bella Hadid, and Hailey Biebber"[URL]
- 최수현, "현대 패션에 표현된 숭고미에 관한 연구", 복식, 55(7), pp.114~130 (2005), 한국복식학회
- Crane, D., "Fashion and its social agendas : Class, gender, and identity in clothing" (2000), University of Chicago Press
- Floch, J. M., (1990), Presses Universitaires de France-PUF
- "Five brands to know from Seoul fashion week" (2019)[URL]
- Held, D., "Introduction to critical theory" (1980), University of California Press
- Hénault, A., "(Vol. 1)" (1979), Presses Universitaires de France-PUF
- 허효정, "과학으로 음악적 숭고를 규명하려면? : 음악인지과학의 숭고연구를 위한 인문학적 제안", 서양음악학, 22(2), pp.65~94 (2019), 한국서양음악학회[DOI]
- (2019)[URL]
- Ji, J. S., "An analysis on the characteristics of Korean fashion designer utilizing the Greimas’semiotic square model", doctor, pp.2019
- Kim, E. K., "A review of the characteristics of 20th century fashion and clothing design based on a semiotic approach", doctor, pp.2001
- Kim, J. A., "A study on the characteristics of post-modernism expressed in costume", The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 6(4), pp.213~228 (1998)
- "Meet the 3 cult Korean designers making major waves in New York" (2015)[URL]
- Kim, M. J., (2004), Kyomunsa
- Kim, S. D., (2002), Korea University Press
- Kim, Y. B., "Visual literacy, for semiotic designers & image specialists" (2005), Midam
- Lee, C. H., "The analysis of meaning of Korean image reflected in modern clothing", Journal of the Costume Culture, 8(4), pp.562~576 (2000)
- Lee, J. W., (2003), Philosophy Academy
- Lee, J. W., (2011), GreenBe
- "Runway rundown IV: Promising brands from Seoul Fashion Week to look out for" (2019)[URL]
- Park, I. C., "Paris school semiotics" (2003), Mineumsa
- 박명선, "숭고(崇高)의 미를 기반으로 한 추상미술 감상교육에 관한 연구", 조형미디어학, 25(2), pp.33~48 (2022), 한국일러스아트학회[DOI]
- 박태순, "MMORPG 가치체계 비교연구", 한국콘텐츠학회 논문지, 11(10), pp.85~92 (2011), 한국콘텐츠학회
- 박영진, "Madonna 패션이미지의 기호학적 분석과 신화연구-2005~2011년 패션이미지 중심으로-", 한국의류학회지, 35(10), pp.1161~1174 (2011), 한국의류학회
- Rossolatos, G., "Applying structuralist semiotics to brand image research", Public Journal of Semiotics, 4(1), pp.25~82 (2012)
- Shin, H. S., (2005), NaNam Pub
- "V&A opens first major exhibition on Korean pop culture, Hallyu!The Korean wave" (2022)[URL]
- "6 Korean brands to know from Seoul fashion week" (2019)[URL]
- 양리나, "카스파 다비드 프리드리히 회화에 나타난 독일낭만주의 복식의 특성", 한국의상디자인학회지, 14(1), pp.13~29 (2012), 한국의상디자인학회
- 윤지영, "예술로서 패션의 미의식과 미적 향수에 대한 실증적 연구", 복식, 59(2), pp.42~58 (2009), 한국복식학회