본문 바로가기
KERD
논문KCI 등재

한국 패션디자이너 작품에 나타난 여성적 숭고의 특성

Characteristics of female sublimity represented on Korean fashion designers’ works

0

조회

0

다운로드

0

인용

0

참고문헌

키워드

주제분류생활과학

초록

Contemporary fashion research has paid increasing attention to the sublimity in the context of postmodernism. Sublimity is considered essential in contemporary fashion design as it arouses complex emotions which verbal expression cannot describe. Therefore, contemporary fashion designs need to be interpreted in terms of the sublimity. Through a detailed review of literature, the present study discusses Kantian and Lyotardian sublimity as main theories representing conventional and cotemporary concepts of sublimity. This paper selected five Korean fashion designers who won the prize of Samsung Design Fund from 2006 to 2019 and actively introduce their works every year. Images were collected to analyze their designs introduced from 2018 S/S to 2019F/W at their website. In addition, formative and color characteristics were analyzed to identify the changing features of s sublimity. Major findings of analyses are as follows. First, all designers’ collections reflected both male and female sublimity with the respect to its formative characteristics. Color characteristics of sublimity indicated that Jeong, Wook Jun’s collections represented features of male sublimity and other designers works showed elements of female sublimity. Essentially, the typical contemporary concept of the sublimity was found in the designs of Seo, Hye In. Consequently, female sublimity is more inclusive than male sublimity, while being opened to otherness.

Abstract

Contemporary fashion research has paid increasing attention to the sublimity in the context of postmodernism. Sublimity is considered essential in contemporary fashion design as it arouses complex emotions which verbal expression cannot describe. Therefore, contemporary fashion designs need to be interpreted in terms of the sublimity. Through a detailed review of literature, the present study discusses Kantian and Lyotardian sublimity as main theories representing conventional and cotemporary concepts of sublimity. This paper selected five Korean fashion designers who won the prize of Samsung Design Fund from 2006 to 2019 and actively introduce their works every year. Images were collected to analyze their designs introduced from 2018 S/S to 2019F/W at their website. In addition, formative and color characteristics were analyzed to identify the changing features of s sublimity. Major findings of analyses are as follows. First, all designers’ collections reflected both male and female sublimity with the respect to its formative characteristics. Color characteristics of sublimity indicated that Jeong, Wook Jun’s collections represented features of male sublimity and other designers works showed elements of female sublimity. Essentially, the typical contemporary concept of the sublimity was found in the designs of Seo, Hye In. Consequently, female sublimity is more inclusive than male sublimity, while being opened to otherness.

참고문헌 (45)

  1. Adorno, T. W., "Negative dialectics" (1973), Continuum
  2. "Juun. J makes the case for statement outerwear" (2016)[URL]
  3. 방수란, "앤 드뮐미스터의 여성복에 나타난 작품특성 연구 -1990년대-2010년대 중심으로-", 한국디자인문화학회지, 23(1), pp.239~257 (2017), 한국디자인문화학회
  4. Burke, E., "A philosophical enquiry into the origin of our ideas of the sublime and beautiful" (1958), Columbia University Press
  5. "Cheolhak", 2001, 197~220
  6. 최수현, "현대 패션에 표현된 숭고미에 관한 연구", 복식, 55(7), pp.114~130 (2005), 한국복식학회
  7. Choi, S. H., "A study on aesthetic category of dress : Selected period of the Renaissance and the Baroque", Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 23, pp.197~210 (1994)
  8. 전영백, "‘포스트미니멀리스트’ 아니쉬 카푸어(Anish Kapoor)의 신체를 닮은 형이상학적 작업: 숭고와 언캐니 사이", 현대미술사연구, (32), pp.319~352 (2012), 현대미술사학회[DOI]
  9. 정현숙, "14-15세기 복식에 나타난 고딕 양식의 미적 표현", 한국생활과학회지, 31(1), pp.113~130 (2022), 한국생활과학회[DOI]
  10. "AW19 Erotique Voilee"[URL]
  11. Hinrichsen, L., "Economies of desire and the feminine sublime in Elizabeth Madox Roberts’s the time of man", Southern Quarterly, 48(3), pp.34~51 (2011)
  12. 허예은, "한국의 현대 패션과 젠더 가치관", 한국패션디자인학회지, 18(2), pp.1~19 (2018), 한국패션디자인학회[DOI]
  13. "Waste land fall/winter 2018"[URL]
  14. (2016)[URL]
  15. "2018 fall/winter lookbook"[URL]
  16. Kang, J. H., "A study on the feminine sublime in Oh Jung-Hee’s novels", master, pp.2011
  17. Kant, I., "The critique of the power of judgment" (2000), Cambridge University Press
  18. 김창준, "헤겔의 상징적 예술 형식에서 숭고 개념에 관한 연구 - 칸트, 리오타르, 지젝과의 연관성과 차이를 중심으로", 대동철학, 91, pp.89~125 (2020), 대동철학회
  19. 김은하, "포스트 한국 전쟁과 여성적 숭고의 글쓰기 − 박경리의 초기 단편소설을 중심으로", 아시아여성연구, 56(1), pp.37~62 (2017), 아시아여성연구원
  20. Kim, H., "On the possibility of female sublime", Journal of the Korean Feminist Philosophy, 1, pp.177~194 (2001)
  21. Kim, H. D., "Sublimity, avant-garde, and postmodernism", Journal of the Daedong Philosophical Association, 6, pp.93~109 (1999)
  22. Kim, J. H., "The sublime", Journal of Feminist Theories and Practices, 27, pp.282~299 (2012)
  23. 김진모, "현대 건축에 있어서 숭고함의 의미와 그 적용에 관한 연구 - 렘 쿨하스의 작품 해석을 중심으로 -", 대한건축학회논문집, 24(11), pp.181~190 (2008), 대한건축학회
  24. 김미숙, "『프랑켄슈타인』에 나타난 ‘공포’와 ‘숭고’", 세계문학비교연구, (45), pp.159~184 (2013), 세계문학비교학회
  25. Kim, M. J., "A study on modernism and postmodernism depicted on the 20th century of fashion(Ⅰ) : Focused on anti-aesthetics and open-fashion", Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 37, pp.103~118 (1998)
  26. Kim, M. J., "Costume aesthetics lesson: The way of looking: Costume aesthetics" (2004), Kyomunsa
  27. Kim, M. R., "Postmodernism in makeup and fashion", master, pp.2019
  28. "Korea Agency for Technology and Standards"[URL]
  29. 곽영윤, "전율과 강화 : 아도르노와 리오타르의 숭고 개념에 관하여", 미학예술학연구, 56, pp.273~293 (2019), 한국미학예술학회[DOI]
  30. 권정임, "숭고 이미지의 예술철학적 의미", 인문학연구, (41), pp.67~112 (2011), 인문학연구원
  31. "Autumn winter 2019 collection"[URL]
  32. 이지현, "아제딘 알라이아(Azzedine Alaïa) 컬렉션 작품에 나타난 중세시대 여성 복식의 미적 특성 분석 -금욕주의와 뇌쇄주의를 중심으로-", 복식, 71(6), pp.75~96 (2021), 한국복식학회[DOI]
  33. Lipovetsky, G., (2002), Princeton University Press
  34. Lyotard, J. F., "The sublime and the avantgarde", Paragraph, 6(1), pp.1~18 (1985)
  35. 박현희, "색채 감성 및 상징을 통한 아동미술 수업지도방안 연구 -IRI 이미지스케일 색채감성척도를 중심으로-", 기초조형학연구, 18(3), pp.139~152 (2017), 한국기초조형학회
  36. "AW 18 runway"[URL]
  37. Ro, J., "Samsung fashion & design fund, global platform of Korean designers", Fashion Information and Technology, 12, pp.20~27 (2015)
  38. 서정립, "가상공간의 온라인 게임 캐릭터 패션에 표현된 추(醜)", 복식, 56(1), pp.106~120 (2006), 한국복식학회
  39. 신미라, "해체주의 패션디자인의 단계적 변화와 기호학적 관점의 의미 분석", 한국패션디자인학회지, 20(4), pp.113~129 (2020), 한국패션디자인학회[DOI]
  40. 송주현, "이제하 소설에 나타난 여성적 숭고 - 『풍경의 내부』(2000)를 중심으로 -", 어문론집, 68, pp.177~202 (2016), 중앙어문학회[DOI]
  41. 손해연, "신해체주의 관점에서 뎀나 바잘리아 패션디자인의 미적 특성에 관한 연구", 커뮤니케이션디자인학연구, 78, pp.213~225 (2022), (사)한국커뮤니케이션디자인협회 커뮤니케이션디자인학회
  42. "Juun. J reinvents classic men’s wear Juun. J has become known for his unique reinterpretations of classic men’s wear pieces" (2016)[URL]
  43. 양리나, "카스파 다비드 프리드리히(C. D. Friedrich)회화에 나타난 독일낭만주의 복식의 숭고미", 한국의상디자인학회지, 15(2), pp.89~105 (2013), 한국의상디자인학회
  44. 연희원, "칸트의 패션철학과 그 인식론 비판: 여성주의 관점에서 복식철학에 관한 한 연구", 현상학과 현대철학, (76), pp.53~81 (2018), 한국현상학회[DOI]
  45. 윤영돈, "숭고의 미학과 도덕교육", 倫理硏究, 1(108), pp.31~49 (2016), 한국윤리학회[DOI]

이 간행물의 다른 논문 (8건)