藏書閣 소장 『官服章圖案』연구

Abstract

The modern Western-style official uniform system consisted of ‘rules,’ ‘making methods’ and ‘figures.’ No4372∼5 of Guanbokjangdoan in Jangseogak prove the existence of figures, and are valuable materials for figuring out the details of dress style by comparing with making methods prescribed in words. The present study examined the four types of materials, sorted out their structure and contents, and explained the characteristics of the materials. In particular, we analyzed the detailed forms of No4372 ㆍ 4 and presented them as figures. In addition, referring to Gwan-Do and related official documents, we traced the whole process from the establishment of the Western-style official uniform system to the enforcement of the system. The results of this study are as follows. No4372 ㆍ 4, whose main pattern is althea, were figures attached to Royal Order No. 14 ‘Rules of the Uniform of General Civil Officers’ and No. 15 ‘Methods of Making the Court Dress of General Civil Officers.’ Among them, No4372 written on oil paper seems the original, and No4374 written on transparent paper a copy of No4372. No4373 was imported from UKAI, a tailor shop in Japan that made modern Western-style court dress. It shows the pictures of several kinds of court dress for civil and military officers used in modern Japan, and is believed to have been used as an important reference in establishing and making modern Western-style official uniforms in Korea. No4375 is presumed to be the court dress of Gungnaebu officers, but there is related research going on, it was not described in detail in this paper. No4372 ㆍ 4 ㆍ 5 are composed of 12 sheets each, presenting the styles of tailcoats, hats, sabers, vests and pants, distinguishing between officers of royal appointment and general officers. No4373 is composed of 23 sheets, and shows 7 styles of dress. The process that the modern Western-style official uniform system was established and enforced can be summarized as follows. After making methods and figures were imported from Japan, with the patterns replaced with those representing the Daehan Empire, ‘rules’ and ‘making methods’ were provided and ‘figures’ were designed. For the figures, the originals and copies were made, and reduced copies were also made to be published in the official gazette. The reduced copies were made by painters at Gungnaebu, who did the work at Gwanbogwa. It is believed that a copy drawn on transparent paper was used when court dress was made at a tailor shop in Korea or in a foreign country. In addition, it was confirmed through articles extant until now that court dress was made in Korea and other countries before the figures were announced. This suggests that after the figures were completed their copies were sent to diplomats before they were published in the official gazette.