장서각 소장 근대 복식 자료 검토 -『官服章圖案』과 『禮服』의 작성 시기 추정을 중심으로-

Abstract

This article aimed to introduce materials related to modern costume in Jangseogak and determine their meanings. It analyzed Kwanbokjangdoan, a material related to Western costume, and Yebok, a material related to traditional costume. The research was conducted by introducing the system and contents of each material and by comparing with relevant materials to decide on the time of making them. First, the review of Kwanbokjangdoan obtained the following results: 4372 and 4374 are consistent with the figures in official gazettes as the system of court dress for civil servants published by the Korean Empire in 1900. 4375 is court dress for civil servants of the Korean Empire with the pattern of plum blossoms and neither its use nor why it was made has been identified. 4373 contains four types of figures. Court dress for civil servants has the Japanese pattern of paulownia adapted to the silhouette of Korean Empire court dress. It seems that court dress for Sickbukwan was to be used as a reference to make court dress for Gungnaebu, the royal household department headquarters and Yesikwon. Court dress for knighthood seems to be a reference to revise court dress. The figure of the military uniform seems to be a pattern that shows a combination of the Korean Empire and Japanese military uniforms. On this basis, it is presumed that Kwanbokjangdoan was the design made by Japan, taking costume system revision into account, during the process of establishing the Residency-General and reforming government organization after defeating Russia. The review of Yebok obtained the following results: The comparison between Yebok A and Yebok B leads to presumption that Yebok B was made by revising and correcting errors in Yebok A and, then, by adding figures to its latter part. It focuses on formal dress of the Crown Prince and Princess, contains folk costume as well, and is partly described in Japanese. It is presumed that Yebok was made after February 1920 because Daehaedangnap, a printing house established at that time, was printed in it along with an official seal of Yiwangjik in the middle part of the bound set. This article has confirmed that materials related to modern costume in Jangseogak reflect the political and diplomatic situation of the Korean Empire and Colonial Chosun.