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도나텔라 베르사체 컬렉션 분석을 통한 패션 브랜드 <베르사체>의 디자인 아이덴티티와 아카이브 계승연구 -2018년∼2021년 밀라노 컬렉션을 중심으로-

Identity and Archive Inheritance of Fashion Brand <Versace> -Focusing on Donatella Versace Milano Collection from 2018 to 2021-

박혜원|신성미
한국패션비즈니스학회|2021.09|패션 비즈니스 (Journal of Fashion Business)|제25권 제4호|pp. 61-78

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키워드

디자인 아이덴티티도나텔라 베르사체패션 아카이브패션 브랜드 베르사체design identityDonatella Versacefashion archivefashion brand Versace
주제분류생활과학

초록

Gianni Versace is one of the most influential Italian designers between the 1980s and 1990s and a representative person to add sexiness and splendour to Italian fashion. This study aimed to analyze the design identity that resulted in the successful handover to Donatella Versace and to review how effectively differentiated and unique heritage elements of Versace were transferred and operated. Literature reviews were performed to find Gianni Versace’s design identity and archive. The scope of this study was Donatella’s collection from 2018 to 2020. In particular, Signature, the most remarkable design identity of luxury brands with a visual identity that includes the mark, logo and symbol and design elements such as the item, colour, materials, details, etc., were the special focus. In this study, the elements of the visual identity of the signature were classified with the logo, icon, silhouette, materials, patterns, colours, and changes in details that were applied with the uniqueness and philosophy of the differentiated brand. Donatella Versace empathized with Versace’s heritage as the brand heritage recalling Versace’s honour in the 1990s and reproduced his honour again by reinterpretation of Versace’s design images. Donatella is considered an excellent creative director who leads the brand by keeping the heritage and applying the trends of the times. This study as a case study of Versace has the meaning that Versace has maintained the brand identity starting from Gianni Versace as the first generation and successful takeover after the change of directors upon recreation to meet the modern times.

Abstract

Gianni Versace is one of the most influential Italian designers between the 1980s and 1990s and a representative person to add sexiness and splendour to Italian fashion. This study aimed to analyze the design identity that resulted in the successful handover to Donatella Versace and to review how effectively differentiated and unique heritage elements of Versace were transferred and operated. Literature reviews were performed to find Gianni Versace’s design identity and archive. The scope of this study was Donatella’s collection from 2018 to 2020. In particular, Signature, the most remarkable design identity of luxury brands with a visual identity that includes the mark, logo and symbol and design elements such as the item, colour, materials, details, etc., were the special focus. In this study, the elements of the visual identity of the signature were classified with the logo, icon, silhouette, materials, patterns, colours, and changes in details that were applied with the uniqueness and philosophy of the differentiated brand. Donatella Versace empathized with Versace’s heritage as the brand heritage recalling Versace’s honour in the 1990s and reproduced his honour again by reinterpretation of Versace’s design images. Donatella is considered an excellent creative director who leads the brand by keeping the heritage and applying the trends of the times. This study as a case study of Versace has the meaning that Versace has maintained the brand identity starting from Gianni Versace as the first generation and successful takeover after the change of directors upon recreation to meet the modern times.

참고문헌 (43)

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  2. "Animal"[URL]
  3. "Black", New York FIT. Gianni Versace Exhibition, ~ (1993)
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  6. "Deshabille"[URL]
  7. "Deshabille Style"[URL]
  8. "Return to the Archive" (2018)[URL]
  9. "Harness"[URL]
  10. Jung, J, "Identity of fashion house design: Concentrating on Dior, Balenciaga", master, pp.2009
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  12. 김수영, "베르사체(Versace) 디자인에 나타난 색채 특성 - 2000년~2006년 컬렉션을 중심으로 -", 한국패션디자인학회지, 9(2), pp.31~46 (2009), 한국패션디자인학회
  13. Kim, U., "A study on the Italian fashion design in the latter half of the 20th century : Focused on womenswear", doctor, pp.2005
  14. Kwark, B., "A study on the form characteristics of Gianni Versace's fashion design", master, pp.1999
  15. Lee, H., "The study on Versace's aesthetic aspect of design reflected in Richard Avedon's fashion photographs", master, pp.2012
  16. Lee, W., "The research on aesthetic characteristics of sexuality expressed in Versace fashion : In the focus of Donatella Versace works", master, pp.2008
  17. "What worked a few months go, does not make sense today —A Versace collection for life after lockdown" (2020)[URL]
  18. "Medusa Bag", New York FIT. Gianni Versace Exhibition, ~ (1993)
  19. "Medusa Belt"[URL]
  20. "Medusa Logo", New York FIT. Gianni Versace Exhibition, ~ (1993)
  21. "Medusa Motif", New York FIT. Gianni Versace Exhibition, ~ (1993)
  22. "Collection review" (2018)[URL]
  23. Nandan, S., "An exploration of the identity-brand image linkage: A communications perspective", Journal of Brand Managemen, 12(4), pp.264~278 (2005)[DOI]
  24. "Nudism Style"[URL]
  25. Park, G., "The greek mythologic image shown in the design of Gianni Versace -Focused on the period between the 1980s to the 1990s-", master, pp.2004
  26. Park, M., "A Study on the see-through style in modern fashion", master, pp.1993
  27. "Pastel"[URL]
  28. "Donatella, helena, mayowa, and more weigh in on why Versace’s spring 2018 tribute collection was the best show ever" (2020)[URL]
  29. "Collection review" (2020)[URL]
  30. "Pop Art", New York FIT. Gianni Versace Exhibition, ~ (1993)
  31. "Slit"[URL]
  32. "Tassel", New York FIT. Gianni Versace Exhibition, ~ (1993)
  33. "Tresor de la Mer", New York FIT. Gianni Versace Exhibition, ~ (1993)
  34. "Versace 2018 FW Collection Analysis"[URL]
  35. "Versace 2018 SS Collection Analysis"[URL]
  36. "Versace 2019 FW Collection Analysis"[URL]
  37. "Versace 2019 SS Collection Analysis"[URL]
  38. "Versace 2020 FW Collection Analysis"[URL]
  39. "Versace 2020 SS Collection Analysis"[URL]
  40. "Versace 2021 SS Collection Analysis"[URL]
  41. "Vivid"[URL]
  42. "X-Silhouette", New York FIT. Gianni Versace Exhibition, ~ (1993)
  43. 임은혁, "건축적 패션 디자인의 구조적 전략", 패션 비즈니스, 18(1), pp.164~181 (2014), 한국패션비즈니스학회

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