宋代 문인의 미식 추구 - 게[蟹]를 중심으로

Abstract

This paper examines how the Song Dynasty literati pursued appetite and gustatory pleasure, with a focus on crabs. It first explores the open and inclusive attitudes toward various ingredients and flavors that contributed to the development of a culture of gastronomic enjoyment during the Song Dynasty. While the Tang Dynasty literati had an aversion to foods from the south, those of the Song Dynasty were open to trying and embracing unfamiliar foods. This openness made them food enthusiasts. Generally, the food preferences of the literati emphasized simplicity and moderation, but when it came to crabs, they were particularly indulgent. This indulgence was reflected not only in their culinary practices but also in their literature and knowledge about crabs. Furthermore, crabs served as a significant way to express sentiments among the literati, often being given as gifts and featured in poetry. As crabs became widely recognized as a food that could evoke nostalgia for home and friends or allow one to savor the autumn atmosphere, they gradually came to symbolize the refined taste of the literati.